i guess i'm just incompetent at drying
Sep 6, 2009 | 12:19 PM
#21
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, KY
(con't)
Video 6: Claying Inspection and the PC & Swirl and Haze Remover - In this video, I inspect the results of my claying. I also assemble my PC and discuss the use of the PC and Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover (SHR) as compared to Adam's Fine Machine Polish (FMP).
Important Note: In my experience up to this point with using both the SHR and FMP, I have found that FMP did more to remove swirls and scratches than SHR. This is in direct conflict to what is stated in the Adam's website, and in the makeup of both products. In fact, the SHR is actually the more aggressive compound when you look at the molecule makeup. You should thus ALWAYS follow SHR with FMP. The reason I may have experienced different results could have been due to a multitude of factors including temperature, the condition or hardness of the clear coat that I was dealing with, or the amount of damage that I perceived was on the truck.
With that said, you should follow the posted information on the website and assume that the SHR is more aggressive than the FMP. If in your comparisons you experience something similar to what I did, post your experiences here. Normal use according to the posted instructions will have you follow SHR with FMP, in order to lessen the damage done by SHR. You can try my technique, but you should follow Adam's instructions if you don't have the success that I did. Remember, Adam knows his products in a whole lot more detail than I do! The more I use them, the more I learn and thus my process will constantly evolve and improve.
Another thing that I did in this video which is not the norm is the amount of product that I used. Normally, I would have used half of the amount that you will see in the very last shot of the video. If I was in direct sunlight or if the surface of the truck was hot, that amount of SHR would have created a stubborn mess. However, I was indoors on a cool night which are the conditions where I have had the most amount of success when correcting paint on a truck. Because of those conditions, I was able to use more product and work the product longer which cut down on the amount of passes that I had to make. Do not use that much product unless the conditions are ideal for you to get away with it. Outside in your driveway on a hot summer day IS NOT the right condition.
Click here for Video 6
Video 7: Applying Polish with the PC - In this video, I address how to apply polish with respect to technique and pressure. Working with polishes using the PC should be done at no higher a setting than 5. If you go higher, you need to be experienced in knowing when the product has completely broken down, which it will do much faster. If not, you will end up doing more damage to the finish than correcting. Working at a speed higher than 5 also makes the PC vibrate quite noticeably.
Click here for Video 7
Video 8: Polishing Inspection and Discussion - In this video, I inspect my polishing and discuss my results. I also recap my process thus far.
Click here for Video 8
Video 9: Laying and Inspecting the Machine Superwax - Just what it says. I apply the machine Superwax, let it dry and wipe it off. I then inspect it in detail. One thing to note, I used more product than normal because of the condition of the paint. You will probably not be restoring paint on a truck in this condition and thus, should only use as much product as the instructions call for. This was a unique situation that called for a little bit of an unorthodox approach.
Click here for Video 9
Video 10: The Conclusion - I recap the entire process as I do it. Again, my way is NOT the only way, nor is it set in stone. As I improve and become more familiar with Adam's products, my technique will probably change. This however, should give you a foundation to start creating a process that works for you. Experience is the key. The more you use these products, the better your results will be.
Click here for Video 10
Some photos from the experience:
That's it boys and girls. Feel free to give me your input and question anything that you saw. All suggestions or questions are welcome so ask away!
The Junkman
Video 6: Claying Inspection and the PC & Swirl and Haze Remover - In this video, I inspect the results of my claying. I also assemble my PC and discuss the use of the PC and Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover (SHR) as compared to Adam's Fine Machine Polish (FMP).
Important Note: In my experience up to this point with using both the SHR and FMP, I have found that FMP did more to remove swirls and scratches than SHR. This is in direct conflict to what is stated in the Adam's website, and in the makeup of both products. In fact, the SHR is actually the more aggressive compound when you look at the molecule makeup. You should thus ALWAYS follow SHR with FMP. The reason I may have experienced different results could have been due to a multitude of factors including temperature, the condition or hardness of the clear coat that I was dealing with, or the amount of damage that I perceived was on the truck.
With that said, you should follow the posted information on the website and assume that the SHR is more aggressive than the FMP. If in your comparisons you experience something similar to what I did, post your experiences here. Normal use according to the posted instructions will have you follow SHR with FMP, in order to lessen the damage done by SHR. You can try my technique, but you should follow Adam's instructions if you don't have the success that I did. Remember, Adam knows his products in a whole lot more detail than I do! The more I use them, the more I learn and thus my process will constantly evolve and improve.
Another thing that I did in this video which is not the norm is the amount of product that I used. Normally, I would have used half of the amount that you will see in the very last shot of the video. If I was in direct sunlight or if the surface of the truck was hot, that amount of SHR would have created a stubborn mess. However, I was indoors on a cool night which are the conditions where I have had the most amount of success when correcting paint on a truck. Because of those conditions, I was able to use more product and work the product longer which cut down on the amount of passes that I had to make. Do not use that much product unless the conditions are ideal for you to get away with it. Outside in your driveway on a hot summer day IS NOT the right condition.
Click here for Video 6
Video 7: Applying Polish with the PC - In this video, I address how to apply polish with respect to technique and pressure. Working with polishes using the PC should be done at no higher a setting than 5. If you go higher, you need to be experienced in knowing when the product has completely broken down, which it will do much faster. If not, you will end up doing more damage to the finish than correcting. Working at a speed higher than 5 also makes the PC vibrate quite noticeably.
Click here for Video 7
Video 8: Polishing Inspection and Discussion - In this video, I inspect my polishing and discuss my results. I also recap my process thus far.
Click here for Video 8
Video 9: Laying and Inspecting the Machine Superwax - Just what it says. I apply the machine Superwax, let it dry and wipe it off. I then inspect it in detail. One thing to note, I used more product than normal because of the condition of the paint. You will probably not be restoring paint on a truck in this condition and thus, should only use as much product as the instructions call for. This was a unique situation that called for a little bit of an unorthodox approach.
Click here for Video 9
Video 10: The Conclusion - I recap the entire process as I do it. Again, my way is NOT the only way, nor is it set in stone. As I improve and become more familiar with Adam's products, my technique will probably change. This however, should give you a foundation to start creating a process that works for you. Experience is the key. The more you use these products, the better your results will be.
Click here for Video 10
Some photos from the experience:
That's it boys and girls. Feel free to give me your input and question anything that you saw. All suggestions or questions are welcome so ask away!
The Junkman
Last edited by Junkman2008; Sep 6, 2009 at 12:34 PM.
Sep 6, 2009 | 03:08 PM
#23
Here is what I do and it works great and saves time.
Wash your truck as well as you can and preferably with a soft clean microfiber sponge so you get the dirt off. then just let it dry. Either just sitting or drive it.
Once it dries I use some "spray away" glass cleaner found at walmart where all the kitchen cleaning stuff is. Use microfiber rags and switch to a dry one when one gets too wet.
That gets rid of all of the water streaks.
Sometimes I'll go back over it again with some Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. This will help it shine a bit more and is like a quick spray on wax used between treatments.
I've always been really pleased with that treatment and you can do it fairly quick in most cases.
Wash your truck as well as you can and preferably with a soft clean microfiber sponge so you get the dirt off. then just let it dry. Either just sitting or drive it.
Once it dries I use some "spray away" glass cleaner found at walmart where all the kitchen cleaning stuff is. Use microfiber rags and switch to a dry one when one gets too wet.
That gets rid of all of the water streaks.
Sometimes I'll go back over it again with some Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. This will help it shine a bit more and is like a quick spray on wax used between treatments.
I've always been really pleased with that treatment and you can do it fairly quick in most cases.
Sep 6, 2009 | 04:31 PM
#24
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, KY
Here is what I do and it works great and saves time.
Wash your truck as well as you can and preferably with a soft clean microfiber sponge so you get the dirt off. then just let it dry. Either just sitting or drive it.
Once it dries I use some "spray away" glass cleaner found at walmart where all the kitchen cleaning stuff is. Use microfiber rags and switch to a dry one when one gets too wet.
That gets rid of all of the water streaks.
Sometimes I'll go back over it again with some Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. This will help it shine a bit more and is like a quick spray on wax used between treatments.
I've always been really pleased with that treatment and you can do it fairly quick in most cases.
Wash your truck as well as you can and preferably with a soft clean microfiber sponge so you get the dirt off. then just let it dry. Either just sitting or drive it.
Once it dries I use some "spray away" glass cleaner found at walmart where all the kitchen cleaning stuff is. Use microfiber rags and switch to a dry one when one gets too wet.
That gets rid of all of the water streaks.
Sometimes I'll go back over it again with some Turtle Wax ICE Spray Detailer. This will help it shine a bit more and is like a quick spray on wax used between treatments.
I've always been really pleased with that treatment and you can do it fairly quick in most cases.
Sep 6, 2009 | 04:41 PM
#25
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
I have always used a good 100% cotton towel... Works excellent... I don't like the shami's always seemed to me they left tiny scratches.... Also make sure when you wash that it is not 100 deg out and the sun is baking right on the paint.... I usually was it at dusk...
Sep 6, 2009 | 05:25 PM
#26
Mothers has a pretty good guide with a lot of good info.
http://www.detailguide.com/index.html
You can actually get some very good microfiber towels at auto part stores and even K-Mart and Target. The drying towels and green quick detailer towels from Viking are excellent, as are the Vroom drying towels available at target and some auto part stores carry nice Mothers microfiber.
http://www.detailguide.com/index.html
You can actually get some very good microfiber towels at auto part stores and even K-Mart and Target. The drying towels and green quick detailer towels from Viking are excellent, as are the Vroom drying towels available at target and some auto part stores carry nice Mothers microfiber.
Sep 6, 2009 | 05:57 PM
#27
The House is Rockin'
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,576
Likes: 0
From: Under a moaning senorita
if you use straight vinegar yes it will, but with a 50/50 mix i havent had it strip wax off
Sep 6, 2009 | 07:22 PM
#28
I just use two microfiber towels, one in each hand. Use the one in the left hand to absorb most of it and the one in the left to psuedo buff it using the small amount of water left from the other. The one on the left I have to ring only one time. The left one never needs to be. Trust me, the water at my house will leave spots bad if I do not use this method.
Sep 6, 2009 | 07:56 PM
#29
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: East Wenatchee, Wa
I'm lazy when it comes to washing the SS. I use the Mr. Clean AutoDry System. Follow the instructions and walk away and it dries spot free. The key to this system working the best is to keep your vehicle wet until ready for the final filtered water rinse.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post