i guess i'm just incompetent at drying
#11
#13
+2 on the absorber. I've got 2 diff. sizes of them. But they are great. Easy to wring out and work well.
#14
thats actually my preferred method lol. i got a big echo back pack blower. it gets all of the water out of the cracks like the mirrors, door handles and rear windows that a rag cant get...spot free and i dont have to get dirty lol
#16
DO you just wash your truck with vinegar and water mix? what mixture do you use?
#18
How do I change this text
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
Washing write up......
10 step program...
Prep..
1. Verify truck needs to be cleaned
2. Turn on Television
3. Find local weather channel
4. Watch weather channel searching for "Low fronts"
5. Mark calender for said low front, storm days
Wash...
6. Find keys to truck
7. Pull truck out of garage. for best results park in an open are keeping distance from trees and other foliage
8. Let nature run its course....
Dry...
9. Once vehicle is completely saturated, (or rain stops) pull back in to garage
10. Let sit for 2-4 hour dry times
Your welcome..
10 step program...
Prep..
1. Verify truck needs to be cleaned
2. Turn on Television
3. Find local weather channel
4. Watch weather channel searching for "Low fronts"
5. Mark calender for said low front, storm days
Wash...
6. Find keys to truck
7. Pull truck out of garage. for best results park in an open are keeping distance from trees and other foliage
8. Let nature run its course....
Dry...
9. Once vehicle is completely saturated, (or rain stops) pull back in to garage
10. Let sit for 2-4 hour dry times
Your welcome..
#19
#20
If you want a wash and wax write-up, I have just what you need. First off, let's address how you dry the truck. I don't know if you are trying to keep or make your paint perfect or not but here's the deal. If the scratches and swirls don't bother you, dry it off any way you can. If you are trying to make your paint look like it just rolled off the assembly line then do this.
Once you have finished washing and rinsing the truck, take any attachment you have off the hose and turn the water down to a slow flow. Then, run the hose over the truck starting at the top and work your way down to the bottom. This will cause all of the water drops to puddle and run off the truck in big puddles. When you are done puddling the water, you will end up with a lot less water on the truck and a lot less water to dry.
Personally, I would never use any of the things that you are using to dry the truck. That stuff is doing nothing but scratching up the finish. I use a $29 leaf blower that I got from Sears. The reason why is that the less I touch my paint, the less I take a chance at scratching it. Once I have pooled the water, blow dried the rest, the final little bit can be easily removed with a quality microfiber towel (not those crappy ones that are sold in auto stores or Costco either). This makes drying a breeze.
Here's my write up of how I take paint from sick shape to sensational. It is a 10 video series so get some popcorn and kick up your feet. It is 1 hour and 18 minutes long. Enjoy!
The title says it all folks. In this 10 video series (1 hour and 18 minutes), you will witness me using various Adam's products to restore half of the hood on my 1979 Chevy El Camino. This truck has not been washed in over two years. I usually let the rain take care of the dirt and it shows. This truck is my daily driver and usually sits outside year round in the elements (that's 4 seasons in the state of Kentucky).
I have used the hood of this truck for everything including cleaning my Corvette floor mats, various bench projects and as a storage area for my bar-b-que cook outs. It works as a good ladder in the garage too! Basically, every kind of abuse that a truck's finish can see has been seen by this hood. If I can bring the shine back from the dead using Adam's products on this finish, your trucks should be a walk in the park.
One important thing to note. This is the way I do things and is not a set in stone template of what you have to do. This is more of a documentation for folks who have little to no experience in professional paint care, and are looking for a direction to go in order to get started. You should use this as a foundation to learn about the products used in the video, but feel free to deviate as you become more familiar with the Adam's line. As you become more experienced, you may want to add to or take away from my process to make it more that of your very own. You can also feel free to do just as I do, as you will witness from the videos is a very effective method in restoring a superb shine.
I will add some text before each video which will be very important for you to read before watching the video. This should clear up any confusion that may occur from watching a particular video.
With that said, get your 3D glasses on and sit back in your easy chair. A "Junkman in His Garage Production" is about to spill onto your screen.
Hide the women and children.

Video 1: Introduction - Just what is says!
Click here for Video 1
Video 2: The Porter-Cable 7424 - In this video, I go over important information about the PC. If you are using the Adam's Second Generation pads, I stress the importance of making sure that you have the correct counter weight installed (for 5" pads). Although the Adam's pads measure 7" across, they are designed to fit the 5" backing plate. Thus you must ensure that you have the 5" counter weight along with the 5" backing plate to use with the Adam's Second Generation pads.
Also stressed in this video is the use of the washer. From my experience, some backing plates need it and some will work fine without it. Instead of giving a list of which do and which don't, I suggest in the video that you use it regardless of the backing plate. This way, no one burns up their PC because they didn't use one. I also stress the importance of using a large enough gauge of extension chord if necessary. This is the number one reason why so many people experience their PC's getting hot. This is also the quickest way to burn your PC up.
Click here for Video 2
Video 3: Vehicle Rinse and Paint Inspection - In this video, I rinse off the big dirt and dust. This is the very first thing you should do when washing the truck. As I inspect the paint, you will actually hear the grit in the paint as I rub my hands across it. Normally, you never want to do this to your finish as any kind of rubbing on the truck with your hands will cause immediate scratches. Since the paint on this truck was in such bad shape, I did it for demonstration purposes only. Once your paint has been corrected, never do this or allow folks to do this to your paint.
Click here for Video 3
Video 4: Claying and the Foam Gun - This video shows the technique used to determine if your finish needs to be clayed. A vehicle that resides in a garage is NOT going to have to be clayed as often as one that sits outside all year. Thus, claying is not a necessary step of paint correction unless it fails the clay bar test.
This video also discusses and demonstrates the use of the foam gun. As stressed in the video, the foam gun is not a high pressure device that blast dirt off the truck. It is a device that soaks the truck down with foam, which loosen the dirt and makes it safe to remove without scratching the finish.
Click here for Video 4
Video 5 - The Two Bucket Wash and Claying - In this video, I discuss the practice of using 2 buckets to wash your truck, utilizing the Grit Guard system. I also demonstrate and talk about the proper way to clay your finish.
One thing that I forgot to show in this video is my drying technique. What I usually do after washing the truck is disconnect the spray nozzle and turn the water down to a slow flow. I run that over the truck which causes all of the water to pool and run off the truck. Once most of the water has done this, I use a leaf blower to blow it dry. I then finish up with a microfiber towel if necessary.
Click here for Video 5
Once you have finished washing and rinsing the truck, take any attachment you have off the hose and turn the water down to a slow flow. Then, run the hose over the truck starting at the top and work your way down to the bottom. This will cause all of the water drops to puddle and run off the truck in big puddles. When you are done puddling the water, you will end up with a lot less water on the truck and a lot less water to dry.
Personally, I would never use any of the things that you are using to dry the truck. That stuff is doing nothing but scratching up the finish. I use a $29 leaf blower that I got from Sears. The reason why is that the less I touch my paint, the less I take a chance at scratching it. Once I have pooled the water, blow dried the rest, the final little bit can be easily removed with a quality microfiber towel (not those crappy ones that are sold in auto stores or Costco either). This makes drying a breeze.
Here's my write up of how I take paint from sick shape to sensational. It is a 10 video series so get some popcorn and kick up your feet. It is 1 hour and 18 minutes long. Enjoy!
The title says it all folks. In this 10 video series (1 hour and 18 minutes), you will witness me using various Adam's products to restore half of the hood on my 1979 Chevy El Camino. This truck has not been washed in over two years. I usually let the rain take care of the dirt and it shows. This truck is my daily driver and usually sits outside year round in the elements (that's 4 seasons in the state of Kentucky).
I have used the hood of this truck for everything including cleaning my Corvette floor mats, various bench projects and as a storage area for my bar-b-que cook outs. It works as a good ladder in the garage too! Basically, every kind of abuse that a truck's finish can see has been seen by this hood. If I can bring the shine back from the dead using Adam's products on this finish, your trucks should be a walk in the park.
One important thing to note. This is the way I do things and is not a set in stone template of what you have to do. This is more of a documentation for folks who have little to no experience in professional paint care, and are looking for a direction to go in order to get started. You should use this as a foundation to learn about the products used in the video, but feel free to deviate as you become more familiar with the Adam's line. As you become more experienced, you may want to add to or take away from my process to make it more that of your very own. You can also feel free to do just as I do, as you will witness from the videos is a very effective method in restoring a superb shine.
I will add some text before each video which will be very important for you to read before watching the video. This should clear up any confusion that may occur from watching a particular video.
With that said, get your 3D glasses on and sit back in your easy chair. A "Junkman in His Garage Production" is about to spill onto your screen.
Hide the women and children.

Video 1: Introduction - Just what is says!
Click here for Video 1
Video 2: The Porter-Cable 7424 - In this video, I go over important information about the PC. If you are using the Adam's Second Generation pads, I stress the importance of making sure that you have the correct counter weight installed (for 5" pads). Although the Adam's pads measure 7" across, they are designed to fit the 5" backing plate. Thus you must ensure that you have the 5" counter weight along with the 5" backing plate to use with the Adam's Second Generation pads.
Also stressed in this video is the use of the washer. From my experience, some backing plates need it and some will work fine without it. Instead of giving a list of which do and which don't, I suggest in the video that you use it regardless of the backing plate. This way, no one burns up their PC because they didn't use one. I also stress the importance of using a large enough gauge of extension chord if necessary. This is the number one reason why so many people experience their PC's getting hot. This is also the quickest way to burn your PC up.
Click here for Video 2
Video 3: Vehicle Rinse and Paint Inspection - In this video, I rinse off the big dirt and dust. This is the very first thing you should do when washing the truck. As I inspect the paint, you will actually hear the grit in the paint as I rub my hands across it. Normally, you never want to do this to your finish as any kind of rubbing on the truck with your hands will cause immediate scratches. Since the paint on this truck was in such bad shape, I did it for demonstration purposes only. Once your paint has been corrected, never do this or allow folks to do this to your paint.
Click here for Video 3
Video 4: Claying and the Foam Gun - This video shows the technique used to determine if your finish needs to be clayed. A vehicle that resides in a garage is NOT going to have to be clayed as often as one that sits outside all year. Thus, claying is not a necessary step of paint correction unless it fails the clay bar test.
This video also discusses and demonstrates the use of the foam gun. As stressed in the video, the foam gun is not a high pressure device that blast dirt off the truck. It is a device that soaks the truck down with foam, which loosen the dirt and makes it safe to remove without scratching the finish.
Click here for Video 4
Video 5 - The Two Bucket Wash and Claying - In this video, I discuss the practice of using 2 buckets to wash your truck, utilizing the Grit Guard system. I also demonstrate and talk about the proper way to clay your finish.
One thing that I forgot to show in this video is my drying technique. What I usually do after washing the truck is disconnect the spray nozzle and turn the water down to a slow flow. I run that over the truck which causes all of the water to pool and run off the truck. Once most of the water has done this, I use a leaf blower to blow it dry. I then finish up with a microfiber towel if necessary.
Click here for Video 5
Last edited by Junkman2008; Sep 6, 2009 at 12:24 PM.



. Just curious cause everyone does it a little differently



