Vortec350ss 2005 Sierra Denali - Forged 370 and cog driven TVS2300
#841
My pulley setup for the front is a lame 6 rib with stock tensioner, still trying to figure out how to setup an HD or a double pull with 8 rib. Once I figure out tensioner then will have t-mac make a dedicated 8-10 rib pulley setup.
The rear cog pulley setup is basically just an OD cog part ordered with the blower, see if I can find a part number. Its nice because you can keep a nice high front pulley size at 3.x or even 4.x for good belt wrap and still spin the blower at max rpm ~25k, or if you wanna go full tilt then you can just start dropping the front pulley size down and go almost to 20psi on stock cube motor (assuming compression is similar) I also went with a dual feed fuel rail which looks like you already have.
The rear cog pulley setup is basically just an OD cog part ordered with the blower, see if I can find a part number. Its nice because you can keep a nice high front pulley size at 3.x or even 4.x for good belt wrap and still spin the blower at max rpm ~25k, or if you wanna go full tilt then you can just start dropping the front pulley size down and go almost to 20psi on stock cube motor (assuming compression is similar) I also went with a dual feed fuel rail which looks like you already have.
#842
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I have the 20% OD cog pulley's with the 10% OD balancer and I run a 3.2 pulley up front. Equivalent to a 2.67 pulley on a standard front drive 2300 or a jackshaft at 1:1. It's a 2.42 with the standard diameter truck balancer. If you truly do have your pulley's set to under drive by 20% then it would be like running a 2" pulley on your jackshaft.
With my pulley combo I see just a hair over 20K rotor speed at 6500RPM. It makes just about 17PSI on my motor, but there are a lot of cooling mods that need to be done. I think they will reel that back in a tad.
What diameter is your current blower pulley?
With my pulley combo I see just a hair over 20K rotor speed at 6500RPM. It makes just about 17PSI on my motor, but there are a lot of cooling mods that need to be done. I think they will reel that back in a tad.
What diameter is your current blower pulley?
#845
not a 1:1 cog, is a OD setup, basically just flipped backwards.
The front is a 3.4x right now i believe, but i am getting belt slip past 5600 because of the shitty tensioner design. The tensioner and the fixed idler pulley on the blower basically but up to eachother, and the spring is sooooo weak on the tensioner that is flops around like a fish out of water.
The front is a 3.4x right now i believe, but i am getting belt slip past 5600 because of the shitty tensioner design. The tensioner and the fixed idler pulley on the blower basically but up to eachother, and the spring is sooooo weak on the tensioner that is flops around like a fish out of water.
#846
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Still fighting these gremlins... no freaking clue what is causing it.
It's exactly at 1400 RPM. EXACTLY... I just don't understand.
I have had a few people look at it now with little to no success. Call it none.
It's exactly at 1400 RPM. EXACTLY... I just don't understand.
I have had a few people look at it now with little to no success. Call it none.
#848
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Its not as long winded as you may think. Since I can recall having no meaningful hesitation I was on my stock fuel system with the 90mm throttle body. First change was the 102mm throttle body which started me down the path of idle tuning. It was a pain in the ***. I had trouble with HPTuners 3.0 to be honest but I could never get idle where I wanted it. I played with all sorts of timing and air flow settings. Playing with the timing made me have a weird hesitation like this at one point, but a quick reflash made it disappear... for the most part. What I think it was that caused that was my in drive and in park idle timing not matching. I could almost point to that as a moment that kind of started this all. Cruising in a parking lot I found myself experiencing a very similar hesitation. From that moment with a very abrupt stab of the throttle I would have a small hesitation sometimes. TO be honest I attributed that to the 102mm throttle body which since around that time started to give me the dreaded REP issue that the TPIS throttle bodies are known for with the gen III PCM.
Now with my most recent change being the fuel system it is as bad... no worse. Its by far the worst it has ever been and its insanely consistent. Obviously there were tune changes heading into the first start with the new fuel system too. I just don't understand.
I did "abort" a "write changes" by accident before my first start with the fuel system, but that shouldn't cause issues as far as I know. Then again these PCM's are a fickle beast.
I hope that is clear... I'm just typing it up as fast as I can.
Now with my most recent change being the fuel system it is as bad... no worse. Its by far the worst it has ever been and its insanely consistent. Obviously there were tune changes heading into the first start with the new fuel system too. I just don't understand.
I did "abort" a "write changes" by accident before my first start with the fuel system, but that shouldn't cause issues as far as I know. Then again these PCM's are a fickle beast.
I hope that is clear... I'm just typing it up as fast as I can.
#850
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Sorry I forgot to add that I have since gone back to the LS2 90mm throttle body.
Could it possibly be a weird X-link? Whats odd is throttle is totally fine in the scan and its usually very quick to pop a code when something is off there.
Could it possibly be a weird X-link? Whats odd is throttle is totally fine in the scan and its usually very quick to pop a code when something is off there.


