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shakenfake's Sierra SLT LBZ thread (BORING)

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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 11:03 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by dantheman1540
emissions delete.
I am a law abiding citizen and would never do such a thing.
I am going to test one thing before I replace it. I should be able to command the turbo to different positions and see if the commanded match the actual. Fingers crossed I can just do a VGT position relearn but I highly doubt it.

So this means I need to get a scan tool, Tech 2 clone or the Autel MK808?
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 11:14 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
@wretched73 $Free.99 when you don't pay for them cause they collect dust.

@RedXray 10 $5000 ones so I can liven up my daily choices.

Also just so everyone can sit and laugh at me because I just know this game. Guess who has to replace a turbo? This guy! Guess who has to replace an ECM? This guy! ECM maybe not though turbo most likely.
Means I can go ahead and lose the weight I have been meaning to.

You know I think the Lord enjoys playing cruel jokes on me. *sigh* depression sets in, back where I started. Fortunately at least I can drive with the way the truck is, it just is a little low on power but nothing drastic. I've had a lot of good things going on in my life and I am really really trying to not let this get me down. Just been so busy recently that I barely have time to do anything. I go back to school in the spring and work full time so that is going to suck wiener. Don't mean to kill the thread but just wanted to let people know kind of what is going on. Life has been absolutely bonkers recently. In a month(?) or so I have something huge happening for me. You'll see

P2610, P2510, P2563 btw. So compounds????


Also edit before anyone suggests it. No I do not believe the dealership knew about these codes. The P2510 and P2610 I figured had something to do with the battery dying while sitting. I think that it is completely coincidental that the P2563 code has popped now. This truck basically sat for 2 years without getting driven at all. It took me 400 miles before anything popped up for it. I would be willing to gamble that it is completely coincidental. Especially now since it pops every other time I start the truck.
Don't feel bad. My Coworker bought an LBZ that I found him. Everything looked good and went great on the test drive. he purchased the truck and I barely made it out of the drive way and it pooped the turbo code. They have an onsite monkey... and we tried clearing it and cycling it with no luck. They offered to replace it at Cost but my coworker elected not to get it repaired at that time by there guy. A few years later he had it done at a local Diesel Shop and it's been fine ever since.

Ironically it was a 2 owner truck and everyone kept good records and gave that info with the truck. At some point it had already had the turbo replaced at the dealer earlier in its life.

It happens, I would do a stock type stage 2 turbo and leave it... Your going to blow the trans up turning the power up and that's another 5k....
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 11:19 AM
  #113  
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Yeah I am not trying to turn the power up on this truck a lot. I was looking at a stage 1 for 2k but damn that's 2k lol probably will just try and clean it and tune it. There are some things I need first though before I can do this job better underhood light, and scan tool. Pivoting ratchet would help too.

Last edited by shakenfake; Sep 20, 2022 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 12:36 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
Yeah I am not trying to turn the power up on this truck a lot. I was looking at a stage 1 for 2k but damn that's 2k lol probably will just try and clean it and tune it. There are some things I need first though before I can do this job better underhood light, and scan tool. Pivoting ratchet would help too.
Your basic stock Rebuild/Replacement turbo is about $1500...

You can pull the turbo, clean/lubricate the vanes, maybe replace the unison ring and actuator then reassemble it for alot less.

I just found a stock LLY turbo in the junk yard that I would like to play with. For some reason, the bone heads like to remove and dismantle them... I found most of the parts to put it back together. We scabbed a Unison ring and a Clamp from a 6.0L ford just to put it all back together at the yard. It is tight, no play up and down or side to side and its not leaking.

I would like to purchase the slim fins, a new unison ring, a new sensor, an actuator, and a rebuild kit. Even though it seems good, I don't know the mileage or history of the unit.

I might even try wheels, but I need to find some one who can balance the unit if I go that route.
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 01:18 PM
  #115  
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I had seen a few reman turbos for $1000 last night.

I am still on the fence about a new one or a clean and reassemble. Cleaning and reassembling would be cheaper but they say it will not last forever. Would like to just do it once and done.
https://dmaxstore.com/products/?rout...product_id=265
I like this one.
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 01:53 PM
  #116  
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I prefer this one.

https://sinisterdiesel.com/ppe-4540-...l-lbz-lmm.html
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 02:15 PM
  #117  
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Every one has there favorites...
https://www.danvilleperformance.com/...-5mm-stg2-new/

Cleaning the OEM one is not bad. Just have to use a High temp anti seize on the pins and vanes. Replacing the vanes and the unison ring is the key. The unison ring will stick if there is too much slop between them and the vane.

It's funny how the LBZ's have this issue but the LLY has a slightly larger turbo and it does not have this issue.
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 02:20 PM
  #118  
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What is also funny is that when I was researching LBZs I never saw this issue lol
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 02:22 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
What is also funny is that when I was researching LBZs I never saw this issue lol
If you look up turbo failure you will see it. doesn't show up as a common problem though.
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Old Sep 20, 2022 | 02:24 PM
  #120  
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Yeah now I see it all over the place.
Oh well I have a few parts in my cart just need to decide on pulling the trigger
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