Project Kermit
Jul 19, 2009 | 07:37 PM
#251
How do I change this text
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From: Behind the TIG welder
1st are you sure you dont have more bolts than you need?
JUST A FEW GUESSES!!!
1.
2.Starter bolts
3.
4.Front accy bracket could be motor mounts???
5.
6.Alternator bolts
7.Bell housing bolts
8.Front accy bracket
9. bell housing bolts. same as 17?
10. Water pump bolts (need 6)
11.
12.Grounds on block (center top rear)
13.
14.Cam and crank sensor bolts
15.small nut goes on coil bracket stud/bolt which hold bracket above water pump bag. Big ones go on bell housing to hold dip stick tube and vent bracket
16. holds alt wiring bracket on front accy bracket
17.bell housing bolts. same as 9?
18. NON- G.M (could be oil cooler mounting bolts (to block)
19.Fuel rail protector bracket
20.
21.
22.
23.Idler pulley bolt?
24.Ground strap on back of drivers side head
JUST A FEW GUESSES!!!
1.
2.Starter bolts
3.
4.Front accy bracket could be motor mounts???
5.
6.Alternator bolts
7.Bell housing bolts
8.Front accy bracket
9. bell housing bolts. same as 17?
10. Water pump bolts (need 6)
11.
12.Grounds on block (center top rear)
13.
14.Cam and crank sensor bolts
15.small nut goes on coil bracket stud/bolt which hold bracket above water pump bag. Big ones go on bell housing to hold dip stick tube and vent bracket
16. holds alt wiring bracket on front accy bracket
17.bell housing bolts. same as 9?
18. NON- G.M (could be oil cooler mounting bolts (to block)
19.Fuel rail protector bracket
20.
21.
22.
23.Idler pulley bolt?
24.Ground strap on back of drivers side head
Last edited by Wilde Racing; Jul 19, 2009 at 08:29 PM.
Jul 19, 2009 | 07:59 PM
#252
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
WOW...
That was pretty cool! I got a big ****-eating grin on my face! 
I knew you wouldn't disappoint Dusty, I swear you have a 6th sense with bolts!!
I will check out #9 + #17. And like you mentioned I might have extra bolts, Henry gave me extra's of alot of things when I bought the truck so I'm sure he sprinkled a few extra bolts here and there as well, just in case I would ever need them.
The only ones I really need right now is the motor mount bolts...
There are 8 that I left in the brackets when I was at your house so I wouldn't lose them and there are 6 that I will need to match up...is that #1 possibly? What was the trick with the engine brackets again? Attach them to the block first or to the frame first? I remember one set of bolts is a PIA the get too if done wrong.
That was pretty cool! I got a big ****-eating grin on my face! I knew you wouldn't disappoint Dusty, I swear you have a 6th sense with bolts!!I will check out #9 + #17. And like you mentioned I might have extra bolts, Henry gave me extra's of alot of things when I bought the truck so I'm sure he sprinkled a few extra bolts here and there as well, just in case I would ever need them.
The only ones I really need right now is the motor mount bolts...
There are 8 that I left in the brackets when I was at your house so I wouldn't lose them and there are 6 that I will need to match up...is that #1 possibly? What was the trick with the engine brackets again? Attach them to the block first or to the frame first? I remember one set of bolts is a PIA the get too if done wrong.
Jul 19, 2009 | 08:10 PM
#253
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13,870
Likes: 4
From: Here and sometimes there too.
I'm re-using all of the drive-train from the CCSB as well as the brakes. Only thing that I've bought for this build so far that I didn't have or wanted different is the converter. Only other thing I have on my mind right now is a new intake. I want the Pro-flow XT but I think I'm gonna wait till after Kermit's up and running. I do need to buy some injectors before that happens though, might go with some 96#'ers with a driver box...still deciding.
Bike's a Honda CBR600 F4i and some cosmetic stuff.
Jul 19, 2009 | 08:10 PM
#254
...As for the assembling the rear, it's pretty simple except I don't have a torque wrench yet so I had to stop at attaching the hat to the rotors, I couldn't tighten them up to spec.
Added some steel braided lines which I don't think will improve performance much will it?
As far as front's were concerned I came across a hic-up when it came to the bracket clips for the brake lines.
There are two brackets that keep the line from being pinched in the suspension...
However I couldn't figure out how to get them off without either cutting or damaging the hose. I don't have a vise to hold it while I try and spread it open nor to I have a torch to try and heat it to soften it. Anyone else ever come across this problem and if so what did they do?
For now this is what I got.
Added some steel braided lines which I don't think will improve performance much will it?
As far as front's were concerned I came across a hic-up when it came to the bracket clips for the brake lines.
There are two brackets that keep the line from being pinched in the suspension...
However I couldn't figure out how to get them off without either cutting or damaging the hose. I don't have a vise to hold it while I try and spread it open nor to I have a torch to try and heat it to soften it. Anyone else ever come across this problem and if so what did they do?
For now this is what I got.
Looks great... good progress all by yourself. I like the older style of calipers that have the WILWOOD all engraved out, instead of the new style which is just the outside laser etched - also the new rotors are completely treated with anti rust and they are black (black wears off the rotor FACE, but not the holes or no contact areas leaving them black)
I did get a torque wrench and got the Hat's on the rotors per spec and then spent a few hours doing this to the bolts...
I kinda got good at it after a while and was disappointed when I got them all done!
Slapped on the driver's side rear brake...
I was putting a nut onto one of the caliper studs and half-way up the stud the nut started to get difficult to turn(the nut wasn't even touching the calipers yet so there was no force applied to the nut at all), so I backed it off all the way and just at the very end when the nut was half off the stud the nut seized. Same thing happened to the other one except I was able to get the nut off and this is what the stud looked like...
Found some shavings on the stud, threads on the stud and the nut were practically melted. I was just gonna put the nut on hand tight so I can shim the calipers and rotors but as it got difficult to turn I backed it all the way off and this is what happened. ...I'm gonna need new studs and locking nuts.
I kinda got good at it after a while and was disappointed when I got them all done!
Slapped on the driver's side rear brake...
I was putting a nut onto one of the caliper studs and half-way up the stud the nut started to get difficult to turn(the nut wasn't even touching the calipers yet so there was no force applied to the nut at all), so I backed it off all the way and just at the very end when the nut was half off the stud the nut seized. Same thing happened to the other one except I was able to get the nut off and this is what the stud looked like...
Found some shavings on the stud, threads on the stud and the nut were practically melted. I was just gonna put the nut on hand tight so I can shim the calipers and rotors but as it got difficult to turn I backed it all the way off and this is what happened. ...I'm gonna need new studs and locking nuts.
Jul 19, 2009 | 08:51 PM
#257
More **** talkin. It's BC vs Moregrip all over.
I think 5speedsilverado is askin are those Street Scene mirrors adding a feature like signals or heat?
Wilwood guys are great, friendly and pretty cool to deal with. Dave & I got a quick tour of their shop and the place is absolutely positively HUGEEEE. I had no idea how many brakes these guys made. I thought they were a Mom and Pop place but they sell about 500 brake kits a day and they also have some contracts with some big name auto manufacturer's that I wasn't aware of.
Anyways, I showed them to damage to my studs and they took them off my hands and gave me these instead!!
Brand new Caliper mounting brackets, one of them wasn't even damaged or messed up but they gave me two new ones just so that they would match!!
They also loaded me up with tons of bolts and nuts that I did not need but they told me just in case! Thanks Tarrant!
I stopped by Big Dave's shop on way back from Wilwood's and he was a big help as usual and let me use his vise and some of his tools to bend the brackets off the stock brake lines. So I'll be able to re-use them after-all!! I still need to do a few bends in them to get them exactly where I want but I think It'll work out great.
I ran into a problem with the passenger rear hub, for some reason the hat and rotor had a pretty bad wobble. Wasn't sure what it was at first but I installed the hat + rotor backwards...
and that's when it became clear as to what the problem was...there was some rust build up on the face of the hub that wouldn't let the hat + rotor sit flush. A hand grinder and some 60 grit sand paper later and all was good.
I figured since I wasn't gonna use this, that I would pull it out. It's an airpump used to run cleaner emissions, helpful during smog tests.
Guess I'll just put it on a shelf for the time being, might have to re-install it at a later date.
And threw them on...
Anyways, I showed them to damage to my studs and they took them off my hands and gave me these instead!!
Brand new Caliper mounting brackets, one of them wasn't even damaged or messed up but they gave me two new ones just so that they would match!!
They also loaded me up with tons of bolts and nuts that I did not need but they told me just in case! Thanks Tarrant! I stopped by Big Dave's shop on way back from Wilwood's and he was a big help as usual and let me use his vise and some of his tools to bend the brackets off the stock brake lines. So I'll be able to re-use them after-all!! I still need to do a few bends in them to get them exactly where I want but I think It'll work out great.
I ran into a problem with the passenger rear hub, for some reason the hat and rotor had a pretty bad wobble. Wasn't sure what it was at first but I installed the hat + rotor backwards...
and that's when it became clear as to what the problem was...there was some rust build up on the face of the hub that wouldn't let the hat + rotor sit flush. A hand grinder and some 60 grit sand paper later and all was good.
I figured since I wasn't gonna use this, that I would pull it out. It's an airpump used to run cleaner emissions, helpful during smog tests.
Guess I'll just put it on a shelf for the time being, might have to re-install it at a later date.
And threw them on...
I learned brake fluid eats epoxy floors (I thought epoxy wouldn't be harmed prior to this), don't do 90mph w/o your papers. Like 1slow01z71 said, it's great you're tackling this on your own. I wish I could say the same.It's great Wilwood took care of u. And I thought CA had a visual check. Won't a missing air pump to run cleaner emissions fail ya?
Also, how did u know u put hat/ rotor on backwards? Are curves directional on rotor or is there another way to know?
Last edited by fastnblu; Jul 19, 2009 at 09:18 PM.
Jul 19, 2009 | 09:09 PM
#258
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
Not sure, check post 122 + 124 for pics of it with the engine in. I think it's about a 4/6 drop. I could be wrong though. Front suspension is DJM and the rear is custom by "Stoichiometric racing"...
Noted and thank you!
Oh in that case No. They are the regular old electric mirrors, no bells and whistles like heat or signal mirrors.
I put it on backwards so I could see the spacing between the hat and the hub. When it's on the right way the hat covers the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc...
When I put it on backwards the I could see the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc... and that's when I noticed that the hat was not sitting flush against the hub...
And yes all the rotors and calipers are directional. You always want the vent tube pointing up on the calipers for when you bleed the brakes so if you were to put the drivers side rear on the passenger side rear they would point down and you would never get all the air out of the system. And the rotors have a directional arrow to tell you which way they are supposed to turn under normal braking application. Kinda like the Pistons have an arrow pointing to the front of the block. (You can actually see the directional arrow in the first picture of this post...it's at the very top of the rotor)
Noted and thank you!
When I put it on backwards the I could see the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc... and that's when I noticed that the hat was not sitting flush against the hub...
And yes all the rotors and calipers are directional. You always want the vent tube pointing up on the calipers for when you bleed the brakes so if you were to put the drivers side rear on the passenger side rear they would point down and you would never get all the air out of the system. And the rotors have a directional arrow to tell you which way they are supposed to turn under normal braking application. Kinda like the Pistons have an arrow pointing to the front of the block. (You can actually see the directional arrow in the first picture of this post...it's at the very top of the rotor)
Jul 19, 2009 | 09:24 PM
#260
...I put it on backwards so I could see the spacing between the hat and the hub. When it's on the right way the hat covers the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc...
When I put it on backwards the I could see the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc... and that's when I noticed that the hat was not sitting flush against the hub...
And yes all the rotors and calipers are directional. You always want the vent tube pointing up on the calipers for when you bleed the brakes so if you were to put the drivers side rear on the passenger side rear they would point down and you would never get all the air out of the system. And the rotors have a directional arrow to tell you which way they are supposed to turn under normal braking application. Kinda like the Pistons have an arrow pointing to the front of the block. [COLOR="Red"](You can actually see the directional arrow in the first picture of this post...it's at the very top of the rotor)
When I put it on backwards the I could see the hub, e-brake, dust shield, etc... and that's when I noticed that the hat was not sitting flush against the hub...
And yes all the rotors and calipers are directional. You always want the vent tube pointing up on the calipers for when you bleed the brakes so if you were to put the drivers side rear on the passenger side rear they would point down and you would never get all the air out of the system. And the rotors have a directional arrow to tell you which way they are supposed to turn under normal braking application. Kinda like the Pistons have an arrow pointing to the front of the block. [COLOR="Red"](You can actually see the directional arrow in the first picture of this post...it's at the very top of the rotor)
I always thought the rotors slots on face are in a FWD direction.