Hey grip, its pretty obvious your a neat freak. So I have a question. What are you doing about that nasty black coating GM puts on the frame? That crap is nasty, I don't understand why they didn't just paint it.

 

When I did my pin kit, I just marked the head of the bolt for the 12; 6; 3; and 9 o'clock positions. Just marked where I started, then put a long cheater pipe on the breaker bar, and got it just past the 9o'clock mark. That should be somewhere near the 140 degree mark. I also used the flywheel holding tool that bolts in in place of the starter, since I was going to have the trans out, anyway

 

Damn Grippy, I've been away to long. What the hell you building? I want one lol. Look nice bro. Like you told me make sure you cut those tie straps lol

 

lol, the white zip ties are temps, I only use the black ones for keeps

the fuel lines will feed directly into the fuel rails instead of using the magnuson supplied fuel block

 

The reason they use the black goop is that if the frame surface gets scraped, in time and with heat, the coating will recover any bare metal. Over the years this minimizes corrosion problems.

Steve

 

wax dip

pretty effective IMO

they did a better wax dip job on my s-10 than on my 99 silvy tho

 

does anyone know if you can get that wax coating somewhere? i have a few rust spots id like to recover.

 

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=352558

 

For those of us who've lived in winter climates where they use salt we've been spraying oil & parafin coating over the undersides for yrs. Usually drive on sandy roads right after and its the cats *** to avoid corrosion. Usually can be done for $20 each fall. Only prob is that if it gets too warm out it can drip if its applied too heavily. Spray on coating in that climate just traps moisture and salt and frames rust from the inside out!

 

Soooooo, when are you gonna have this baby purring?