Actually 2-steps cut spark. They don't retard it.

 

If you have the solenoid set up to add pressure to the top of the gate then you should be able to set it to whatver you want. I have 6lb springs but have my crscking pressure at 18psi or so and they stay closed till then. Bigger spring would only help if backpressure exceeds the sum of boost pressure and spring pressure.

 

Yep exactly. Switch to lambda on both your gauge and HPT and you will be much happier.

Agreed and thats why its still important for me to tune the areas of my spark table where the 2 step sits in. Since i'm running a gutless 4.8L, it makes a huge difference when changing the timing from lets say 10 degrees on the 2 step to 30*+. With lower timing, it won't get up on the converter at all. I found that right at 30* and .87 lambda, it would produce enough torque to climb up the converter to my 3200rpm set point on the 2 step. Obviously this isn't an issue for you big cube guys but my 9:1 comp 4.8L has no power down low

Ookay I see. With the AEM controller I'm using, it wants to know what spring pressure is in the gate. If I tell it its higher than the actual spring, then I get huge spikes and the controller freaks out.

If I turn the controller off, it spools a **** ton slower than with it on so I think it is doing its job of keeping the gate closed until the duty cycle is reached. I honestly believe I just have the wrong converter in the truck. The 4.8L isn't powerful enough to push through it.

 

The truck finally let me down over the weekend, even though it really didn't. I went out to do some freeway pulls and some tuning saturday night and after a couple pulls, I noticed my voltage was down around 11v. So that nice expensive 200amp piece of **** alternator crapped out in less than 500 miles. I had to get my stock alt from the shop today and I put it back in the truck. Now we're charging again. I'll have to call summit tomorrow and see if they want to replace it or give me a refund.

So in short, I'd stay away from the Tuff Stuff alternators.

 

that sucks man. Just curious why did you go with that big alternator instead of a stock 145?

 

Is he into jigga boom music?

 

Ive never had good luck with a high amp alterator. Stock ftw.

 

Just figured I might as well with all my accessories and fans I have. I don't see a downside to having extra amps at my disposal. It would be nice to find one that is reliable though.

I do have a sound system in my truck but I listen to the exact opposite of that. Just as embarrassing but I like slow country

Where can I find a 145amp and how do I tell the difference between that and my 105amp?

 

rpo codes for factory optioned alternator


K09 Alternator, 140 amps
K60 Alternator, 100 amps
K62 Alternator, 105 amps
K65 Alternator, dual, 105 amps each
K68 Generator, 105 AMP
K76 Alternator, dual, 125 amps each
K99 Alternator, 85 amps
KD9 Alternator, dual, 145 amps each
KG3 Alternator, 145 amps
KG4 Alternator, 150 amps
KG7 Alternator, 125 amps
KG8 Generator 130 Amp
KG9 Generator, 140 Amp
KW1 Alternator, 160 amps
KW2 Generator, 124 Amp
KW5 Alternator, 220 amps
KW7 Alternator, 170 amps
KW8 Alternator, 155 amps

145 amp, which is the bigger one is on the left, 105 is on the right...I believe 04+ came with the 145 amp standards so just have a parts store look up a alt for a 05 silverado or something like that...then request a 145a one and you'll need the belt to go along with it

 

Good info right there. Thanks! So if I go down to Carquest, will they be selling OEM refurbished units or what should I stay away from. When you guys say to keep it stock, should I be looking at one from a junk yard or what?