LS6 Engine Swap into '00 Sierra stepside
#12
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From looking at the pics, it looks like your front bracket allows the traction bar to rotate correct? If that is right then it defeats the purpose of a traction bar. You would want the axle to stay stationary and only be able to cycle the normal suspension (up and down) and not side to side, OR allow any axle wrap. Also it looks like you could have used a beefier set up.
Last edited by KySilverado; 01-14-2010 at 08:05 PM.
#13
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Also, we are all on here to learn one thing or another, and we have all made mistakes in our lives so lets try and educate people in a nice manner instead of just bashing someone.
#14
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I had wheel hop, now I don't. Problem solved. And I won't let a shop work on my truck, so if I scovel something, I'll tear it apart and do it all over again.
If you're curious, the bracket has a 5/8" id pipe welded cross-ways, with 5/8" holes in the sides of the bracket. There is a 5/8" hardened bolt for the pivot. Then there's 3/16" steel piece welded in the front for a stopper. The hinge also has a 3/16" piece welded to it, along with a chunk of rubber riveted to it. When I measured the movement to-and-fro by compressing the suspension, I found I needed less than 1/4 at the mounting point, so that's how much I allowed for the pivot (which is adjustable with the heim joints and right-and-left threaded 3/4" swedged steel rod). Now when the axle tries to wrap, the bottom of the axle is trying to go forward, and it's stopped.
I'ts sooo nice to leave nice thick black burnout marks and not feel like you're gonna snap an axle.
Pics aren't too great, but the truck is put away 'til April. Once I get the testing phase over with I'll tear them off and finish painting them, along with the arduous task of cleaning up the surface rust all over the frame and axle. I might modify the pivot some, but it will be the same basic concept.
And if you don't like mine, make some yourself! I might end up liking your design better than mine! Either way, have fun and never tell the war department how much you spent
If you're curious, the bracket has a 5/8" id pipe welded cross-ways, with 5/8" holes in the sides of the bracket. There is a 5/8" hardened bolt for the pivot. Then there's 3/16" steel piece welded in the front for a stopper. The hinge also has a 3/16" piece welded to it, along with a chunk of rubber riveted to it. When I measured the movement to-and-fro by compressing the suspension, I found I needed less than 1/4 at the mounting point, so that's how much I allowed for the pivot (which is adjustable with the heim joints and right-and-left threaded 3/4" swedged steel rod). Now when the axle tries to wrap, the bottom of the axle is trying to go forward, and it's stopped.
I'ts sooo nice to leave nice thick black burnout marks and not feel like you're gonna snap an axle.
Pics aren't too great, but the truck is put away 'til April. Once I get the testing phase over with I'll tear them off and finish painting them, along with the arduous task of cleaning up the surface rust all over the frame and axle. I might modify the pivot some, but it will be the same basic concept.
And if you don't like mine, make some yourself! I might end up liking your design better than mine! Either way, have fun and never tell the war department how much you spent
Last edited by NoShow; 01-26-2010 at 09:03 PM.
#15
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From looking at the pics, it looks like your front bracket allows the traction bar to rotate correct? If that is right then it defeats the purpose of a traction bar. You would want the axle to stay stationary and only be able to cycle the normal suspension (up and down) and not side to side, OR allow any axle wrap. Also it looks like you could have used a beefier set up.
When I put some drag radials on this spring I'll let you know if it's not "beefy" enough
Last edited by NoShow; 01-14-2010 at 09:54 PM.
#16
Hay if it works it works. I built a set for mine too and i just welded brackets to the axel and on the frame and used rubber bushing at both ends, so its solid other then what the bushings can give, thay work great and i cant even tell thay are there.
#17
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I didn't feel I was bashing the OP. I just stated the fabrication is unsafe and judging by the fabrication if anything else on the truck is similar, it is dangerous to be on the road.
The design will not eliminate axle wrap. The tabs welded on the axle are of poor design and welded in a fashion that will shear over time. Big horsepower through a traction device that is faulty will fail and cause the stored energy to result in an accident.
I don't have the time to teach you proper fabrication or tell you how to build traction bars. Go back to the drawing board better your fabrication skills before you unsafely modify a high horsepower vehicle driven on public roads. This is my last post on the subject.
The design will not eliminate axle wrap. The tabs welded on the axle are of poor design and welded in a fashion that will shear over time. Big horsepower through a traction device that is faulty will fail and cause the stored energy to result in an accident.
I don't have the time to teach you proper fabrication or tell you how to build traction bars. Go back to the drawing board better your fabrication skills before you unsafely modify a high horsepower vehicle driven on public roads. This is my last post on the subject.
He is right... for reference look at the caltrac bars... With your setup you might as well just weld the rear shackle in place, or just weld the rearend to the frame. That is what you have done with those bars.
Last edited by KySilverado; 01-14-2010 at 08:25 PM.
#18
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Whatever, I have almost 400lb of torque to the wheels, I think I'd know if there was a problem with my setup.
Go ahead and buy all your bolt-ons and whatever else your credit card limit will allow, and I'll keep having fun designing and building my own stuff.
Go ahead and buy all your bolt-ons and whatever else your credit card limit will allow, and I'll keep having fun designing and building my own stuff.
Last edited by NoShow; 01-14-2010 at 09:55 PM.