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I found a shop thru eBay that will do them for $90 but they want both clusters, probably the equivalent of notarizing. If you're interested I'll get you their info
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I have used Digital-Dash-Solutions on ebay in the past. We tried a local guy and he screwed up a good cluster. Every one else we tried locally was either a disappointment or disappeared.
Did the HD front end swap. I will get the HD Hood eventually. Used Chinese top cap and grille. Emblem is billet aluminum from Ebay. Front bumper is OEM from a mint Tahoe. Paint matched.
Looking to do the HD swap on my Tahoe yours looks great! Where did you order the top cap and grille? Everywhere I've looked they seem ridiculously overpriced.
Looking to do the HD swap on my Tahoe yours looks great! Where did you order the top cap and grille? Everywhere I've looked they seem ridiculously overpriced.
I got the top cap from MBI Auto on Amazon if you google their shop you can get their phone number in WI I think. The grille I got off of ebay looking back I probably would have got the GM grille for a better fit. The top cap was ~$100 and the grille was ~$130. The top cap once it's on it's on taking it off will ruin it.
I found a shop thru eBay that will do them for $90 but they want both clusters, probably the equivalent of notarizing. If you're interested I'll get you their info
I switched the bezel but kept it. I like the stock one over the Denali one
Not of our current sponsors offer this type of service.
I have used Digital-Dash-Solutions on ebay in the past. We tried a local guy and he screwed up a good cluster. Every one else we tried locally was either a disappointment or disappeared.
There is a good local shop that has awesome reviews that is walking distance from my place. Tacoma Speedometer. Probably not as cheap but less down time for the truck if I decide to fix the mileage.
Installed a AEM UEGO 30-4110 Wideband and a AEM Boost Gauge hooked them both up to the fat pink wire underneath the steering wheel. And grounded them to the metal bracket there as well. The first sensor that came on the wideband failed after about 5 minutes of driving. It read fine then got leaner and leaner and would max out with 3 dash lines and stay there. Got the Bosch replacement sensor and so far so good. Going to do the big 3 upgrade in the next months maybe finally install my rear sway bar too.
Hard to take a pic of the lights in the gauges all being on at once. But they are all working fine.
So found I had a leak on my front main seal because when I installed the oil pan originally I just tighten the pan on the block and didn't tighten it on the same time as the front timing cover to line everything up perfect. So as I was pulling off the balancer which I have done before on my other truck. Part of the stock balancer broke off so my 3 Jaw puller wouldn't work. Lucky the shop is only 3 miles from my house. So since I needed a new balancer I decided to go with a ATI unit. I wanted the 10% underdrive unit but I didn't want the pulley to have the extra AC pulley on it. So I called ATI and they gave me the part numbers so I could have a 10% overdriver with no AC.
My E-Fans stopped working, probably a simple fix. But I bought the On3 upgraded radiator and their upgraded E-Fans before summer comes. I will post pictures when I tackle that and see if they make an improvement. Now with the 10% under drive balancer I will need some more cooling. Looking into getting an oil cooler and still have to ceramic coat the rest of the hotside (Turbo housing and Down Pipe), fix an exhaust leak I have been fighting, and install the rear sway bar I bought about a year ago. Also build something to check for boost leaks after everything is done just for kicks.
I used a 4" pvc cap with an air chuck screwed into it that was mounted to a 4" rubber plumbing coupler that was hose clamped to the turbo inlet on my diesels. Would usually hold up to 20psi before popping off.
09-14-2019, 09:34 PM
