Graeme's Daily Driver 2003 4x4 Build
Jan 12, 2016 | 07:03 PM
#205
So with all this cold weather and school, I haven't worked on the truck at all.
Spent today fooling around with a wiring diagram I made up.
If any of you guru's wanna look it over for errors or improvements please do.
I attached as pdf for those who may want this for reference in future
Also... I dunno why photo bucket blurred some of the text, the pdf is mint tho.
REMOVED FOR EDITS ---- SEE NEXT PAGE
Spent today fooling around with a wiring diagram I made up.
If any of you guru's wanna look it over for errors or improvements please do.
I attached as pdf for those who may want this for reference in future
Also... I dunno why photo bucket blurred some of the text, the pdf is mint tho.
REMOVED FOR EDITS ---- SEE NEXT PAGE
Last edited by GM1697; Jan 13, 2016 at 06:18 PM.
Jan 13, 2016 | 07:43 AM
#206
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Im guessing all your switches have LEDs on them?
Why do you have the purge circuit on the window switch? The way it looks is you just have a ground citcuit to the solenoid, when it should be one side of the noid to ground and the other side 12v through the switches (or vice versa). The diagram is just a little confusing on that.
Your NX relay is missing a wire.
Your "relay" should have the noid on the high current side of the relay (30-87) instead of the low current side (85-86).
Why do you have the purge circuit on the window switch? The way it looks is you just have a ground citcuit to the solenoid, when it should be one side of the noid to ground and the other side 12v through the switches (or vice versa). The diagram is just a little confusing on that.
Your NX relay is missing a wire.
Your "relay" should have the noid on the high current side of the relay (30-87) instead of the low current side (85-86).
Jan 13, 2016 | 09:22 AM
#207
Im guessing all your switches have LEDs on them?
Why do you have the purge circuit on the window switch? The way it looks is you just have a ground citcuit to the solenoid, when it should be one side of the noid to ground and the other side 12v through the switches (or vice versa). The diagram is just a little confusing on that.
Your NX relay is missing a wire.
Your "relay" should have the noid on the high current side of the relay (30-87) instead of the low current side (85-86).
Why do you have the purge circuit on the window switch? The way it looks is you just have a ground citcuit to the solenoid, when it should be one side of the noid to ground and the other side 12v through the switches (or vice versa). The diagram is just a little confusing on that.
Your NX relay is missing a wire.
Your "relay" should have the noid on the high current side of the relay (30-87) instead of the low current side (85-86).
Where should I be grabbing my 12v from on both circuits? Inside the cab fuse panel comes to mind for the nitrous controller. But the purge setup doesn't run a relay, so where should I grab power (12v) from? Need enough to support the noid.
Also I'm not sure which wire I missed on the NX relay... I'll have to look when I get home.
And the other IAT relay... Are you sure I have it wrong? Could you explain further? My understanding is that with no current thru the 85-86 the 30-87 will allow normal IAT reading, then with current thru the 85-86 the 30-87a will activate and cause a resisted IAT reading.
Last edited by GM1697; Jan 13, 2016 at 09:40 AM.
Jan 13, 2016 | 11:40 AM
#208
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Youre not missing a wire on the NX relay, I just missed the white line as a wire.
So you basically have an arm switch then you use the window switch to make it go? In that case you don't want the red NX ARM box Tee'd in, you want it inline. I know what you meant, but how its drawn is not correct. It seems like the window switch would have 12v to it, instead of the NX ARM switch. Think of a switch as something that just connects 2 things together, or separates them.
Im guessing the blue FUEL PSI is normally closed then if it drops below a certain pressure its open? That's fine.
Ok I see what you mean about the IAT Relay. 87a is to the IAT, then 87 is to the resistor side. Do you know how much current the solenoids draw? You actually don't have to go through the IAT relay for the noids, you can branch directly off the NX relay and just run the 86 of the iat relay to ground. This way you avoid the noids on the low current side of the relay.
Or do you have one of them fancy electronic window/tps boxes?
So you basically have an arm switch then you use the window switch to make it go? In that case you don't want the red NX ARM box Tee'd in, you want it inline. I know what you meant, but how its drawn is not correct. It seems like the window switch would have 12v to it, instead of the NX ARM switch. Think of a switch as something that just connects 2 things together, or separates them.
Im guessing the blue FUEL PSI is normally closed then if it drops below a certain pressure its open? That's fine.
Ok I see what you mean about the IAT Relay. 87a is to the IAT, then 87 is to the resistor side. Do you know how much current the solenoids draw? You actually don't have to go through the IAT relay for the noids, you can branch directly off the NX relay and just run the 86 of the iat relay to ground. This way you avoid the noids on the low current side of the relay.
Or do you have one of them fancy electronic window/tps boxes?
Last edited by Atomic; Jan 13, 2016 at 11:52 AM.
Jan 13, 2016 | 01:01 PM
#209
Youre not missing a wire on the NX relay, I just missed the white line as a wire.
So you basically have an arm switch then you use the window switch to make it go? In that case you don't want the red NX ARM box Tee'd in, you want it inline. I know what you meant, but how its drawn is not correct. It seems like the window switch would have 12v to it, instead of the NX ARM switch. Think of a switch as something that just connects 2 things together, or separates them.
Im guessing the blue FUEL PSI is normally closed then if it drops below a certain pressure its open? That's fine.
Ok I see what you mean about the IAT Relay. 87a is to the IAT, then 87 is to the resistor side. Do you know how much current the solenoids draw? You actually don't have to go through the IAT relay for the noids, you can branch directly off the NX relay and just run the 86 of the iat relay to ground. This way you avoid the noids on the low current side of the relay.
Or do you have one of them fancy electronic window/tps boxes?
So you basically have an arm switch then you use the window switch to make it go? In that case you don't want the red NX ARM box Tee'd in, you want it inline. I know what you meant, but how its drawn is not correct. It seems like the window switch would have 12v to it, instead of the NX ARM switch. Think of a switch as something that just connects 2 things together, or separates them.
Im guessing the blue FUEL PSI is normally closed then if it drops below a certain pressure its open? That's fine.
Ok I see what you mean about the IAT Relay. 87a is to the IAT, then 87 is to the resistor side. Do you know how much current the solenoids draw? You actually don't have to go through the IAT relay for the noids, you can branch directly off the NX relay and just run the 86 of the iat relay to ground. This way you avoid the noids on the low current side of the relay.
Or do you have one of them fancy electronic window/tps boxes?
The Arm Switch would be turned on which would in turn power up the "fancy" window control box as well as power on the relay. The white outta the NX relay is a ground which the control box activates or deactivates based on settings, hence why the safety switch is in line.
The "IAT" relay, is a trick that Jeff (HooWybrow) is using to retard timing while spraying. So if I understand you correctly I should put the IAT relay in the white/blue ground wire that the fuel safety switch is in also?
Here is what he provided me. Now looking at it I have the resistor on the wrong line...
Last edited by GM1697; Jan 13, 2016 at 01:39 PM.
Jan 13, 2016 | 01:43 PM
#210
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
I am familiar with the IAT trick, its very common. You could actually leave the resistor entirely off since the computer will see that as a max value (I think negative temp), but do it how your tuner wants. I cant see the pic at work, but what I meant was move the green line to the noid at pin 86 on the iat relay, to where the green line starts on the nx relay. You would then just put 86 on the iat relay to ground.