First Time Rebuild On LM7
#11
Actually this statement can be argued also. I am not sure where but there is a break in thread on here that someone posted saying you should beat on to help seat the rings properly. Any oil on sale from walmart is what my engine builder told me to use for the break in. Its always a good idea to run something with a high zinc content if this is a high performance engine.
What I did with my new engine (and the engine I built with a f'd up reground cam) was a nice long highway drive with varying RPM range between 2500-4000 RPM's
Did my oil changes at 100, 500, and 1000 miles then the next at 4500 miles. After I hit 10K in another month or so I will go back to synthetic oil.
#12
The only new parts are the rings and bearings.
Pistons, cam, lifters are reused.
So how many miles using dino. When can I use the good stuff? 500 miles, 1000?
I know Royal Purple says you can use it from the very beginning. But have heard you shouldn't like ya'll said.
Probably pick up some Castrol GTX.
What about viscosity? I have always used 10w30 but may go with 5w30 like the cap says.
Pistons, cam, lifters are reused.
So how many miles using dino. When can I use the good stuff? 500 miles, 1000?
I know Royal Purple says you can use it from the very beginning. But have heard you shouldn't like ya'll said.
Probably pick up some Castrol GTX.
What about viscosity? I have always used 10w30 but may go with 5w30 like the cap says.
#13
i always just run the cheap motor oil on a fresh motor. no point in buying the 6.50 a quart stuff when you need to change it within 100 mile of firing up a new motor. new motor as in bearing wise. IMO just pulling the fuel pump relay and turning over the motor to prime it does nothing. your starter only turns the motor over so fast that the oil pump doesn't even build enough pressure. i always just fire the motor off and hope for the best.
#14
Yea started the install Sunday, was all bolted up. Then awwww crap! why won't this wire pull up? What the freak?!!
Yea had pinched the rear ground wire between the bellhousing and the block.
Well unbolt everything (dang bolts are hard to get to) pull the wire free. Bolt it all back up again.
So Monday got everything wired up, tidy'd up, cleaned up. And cranked it up last night.
Man it was a good feeling. Good oil pressure , about a needle width less than 40 at idle, and almost 60 when romped on.
Couple more things today like the skid plates, fender well, minor stuff. But its done and it runs good and quiet.
Yea had pinched the rear ground wire between the bellhousing and the block.
Well unbolt everything (dang bolts are hard to get to) pull the wire free. Bolt it all back up again.
So Monday got everything wired up, tidy'd up, cleaned up. And cranked it up last night.
Man it was a good feeling. Good oil pressure , about a needle width less than 40 at idle, and almost 60 when romped on.
Couple more things today like the skid plates, fender well, minor stuff. But its done and it runs good and quiet.
#15
Its great to hear your work come to life! Seems like you should have more OP than that though.
#16

ya i guess i forgot that didnt apply for rollers lol.
well like i said before then, give it hell from the start. change the oil after the first few hundred miles. then again by 3k. after that run some nice 100% synthetic and have fun.
#17
Even when this truck was brand new 11 years ago, it had around 40 for an average.
Could be just the gage reading like that, being electric and all.
May just tap that plate down by the oil filter housing and connect a mechanical gage just to see.
I'm just glad its running and has more than 'zero' for a reading. And its not fluctuating like it was before it died.
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