Just bought an LS2 motor from a 2007 SS Trailblazer to replace my 2003 Chevy Silverado 5.3 with a Procharger p1sc. Looking to hit around 700 or 800 rwhp! This will be almost a daily driver looking at moving to a D1sc or a F1 can anyone, Guide me in the right direction to achieve my goals?? Heads are 243. Will my 4l80e and my 14 bolt hold up to this type of power? And Cam? Wanna get much more Serious with this build.. Thanks for your help Rick..

 

I wouldn't be the person to ask about what cam will suit you the best but one thing to look into is what is different about the LS2 in that trailblazer.

I think it's going to have a 58x crank trigger and of course a different front timing cover and cam sensor location. You may want to have the reluctor wheel swapped if you don't want to use a converter box.

 

I will be reading up on that ..Thanks

 

A nicely built bottom end with a solid set of worked 243's with a maxed out D1sc should get you to your goals provided the blower drive is working in good order. I ran a similar combo years ago (but with some ported 706 castings) was was near that power level with a comp grind that was something like 224/230 @ .050 on a 114 with 4* ground in, installed straight up.

A built 4l80e and a 14 bolt rear should not give you any issues.

You will need to pay special attention to the fuel system and likely need meth on top of it for it to survive.

Also, you will probably be a little short on your goals with a 6 rib drive and factory tensioner. Expect to spend around 1200 bux on a nice 8 rib conversion with an HD tensioner, get your self a gates laser alignment tool and get everything the belt touches on the same plane. I'd also recommend a Reichard Racing pullety (if you can even find one) or something similar. There is also the carbonite coating treatment you'll want done on the final blower pulley as well.

To sum it up, you don't need to get crazy on the long block, but get you a nice custom ground cam. I'll leave intake choice up to you, I personally prefer the carb style intakes and would use an Edelbrock Super Victor or Holley High Rise. Then focus the majority of your time and money on getting belt geometry/tension perfect, bracing the blower brackets for zero flex, a monster fuel/meth system set up, and a good intercooler.

Once you have all the mechanical stuff in place, the tuner is gonna be the final factor in getting you to your goals without burning **** up.

If it where me, I'd probably do the F1A in this combo. You won't need to stress the blower as hard which helps with belt slip issues and IAT issues. In a truck, the F1A will literally bolt in with minor mods to the outlet piping side.

Two last tips for a fellow procharger user, don't hang a bunch of tubing off the inlet of the blower to route to an area for a large air filter. You will loose power, even compared to hanging the filter right off the blower. Ignore the "but what about sucking up the heat from the header" bull ****....and finally #2, put the biggest exhaust system you can fit/afford on it. I say a 2" header with a minimum single 4" dumped before the axle.

 

Thanks a lot of good ideals and I already have dual 3" and 1 7/8 headers which dump before the axle. Bracket system looking at 2 one which is custom made and the other is from House of Boost. Both are above 1200. Which one is 1200? The intake will be a Holly Hi Rise.

 

I was just saying that I remember spending around 1200 or so dollars with Joe at Leftcoast 32 when he hooked me up with all the 8 rib stuff I needed plus the tensioner. I did have to custom machine one idler I ended up buying from procharger and was fortunate enough to get my hands on a 3.55" Reichard pulley (which I still have). That plus the laser tool put the total cost right around 1600 bux and once I got the geometry correct and the blower properly braced, it did not slip the belt even at 106% max speed. It never threw belts, never sliped and never shreaded a belt. It was bullet proof. Those Reichard pulleys worked (I don't care what anyone says) and it is a shame he got out of the game. Hence the reason I won't sell mine.

When you get to that point, I have sourced a few companies that may be able to mod the stock procharger pulley with the correct cuts (they are not just inline cuts to the center of the pulley, they are offset). Then once the cuts are made we can get it sprayed with carbonite and it'll chew the belt off before it slips. Back then I scored the Reichard pulley for around 170 bucks, but now with the janky copies being made, it is worth spending a little extra getting a factory procharger pulley cut the correct way. There was a guy on ebay doing it for a long time but had little success cause the cuts where at the wrong angle.

 

the 1 7/8" headers ain't bad (still would like to see a 2" on this), but I think the dual 3" will help if you have a short magnaflow (or the like) mufflers on it.

 

Well I don't think I have the short Magnaflow although they are Magnaflow 3" with a 3" X pipe, got this less than a year ago for my 5.3

 

The LS2 in the Chevrolet Trailblazer SS and the Saab 9-7X Aero are rated at 395 bhp (295 kW) (2006–2007) or 390 bhp (290 kW) (2008–2009) and 400 lb·ft (542 N·m) of torque due to a different (sometimes referred to as a "truck") intake manifold that produces more torque at lower RPMs. 2007 Trailblazer SS Ls2 6.0 Liter LS engine all aluminum 67K miles What all would do to it before putting it in? girdle? I think I will do a dmperformance girdle. Cam with how many lbs of boost?

 

Or should I ask it like this! How is that aluminum block under boost holding up?