Black LSX
#51
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
I used the truck master and the fbody slave, got everything shimmed out and it works just fine. I purchased the truck slave too just so i could use the longer hose and quick connect from the truck setup. just knock at roll pin out of the fbody slave and use the longer hose from the truck slave. It fits fine, if mcleod is gonna make a cheap hose for go for it. and get a remote bleeder and save yourself some headache. I think speedway motors has them in various sizes.
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hardluck13 (10-16-2023)
#53
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
I have pretty much all my parts in except for shifter stick and ball. Will get that after t56 is in and I see where it sits. Started looking at where the pedal goes and this part will suck most!
#54
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Got the clutch put in this weekend. Started on working with the wiring as well to get rid of the black box from the automatic. Was going to put the bellhouse up but decided to get new bolts for it that dont have the long threads sticking out that require you to have a deep socket to remove them. Clutch pedal position pigtail should be hear to complete wiring and waiting on a bracket to mount clutch pedal. Constant waiting game here
#55
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Made some progress, havent had much time to work on it. But have everything done and tried to mount the transmission but i keep getting stuck with just like a quarter inch before its flush. I assume its hitting the pilot bearring. The pedal isnt that hard to install after i figured out my mistake, will explain later. Ready to drive this and see how it drives.
Below is the different crossmembers for reference
Since im running a GTO trans I switched out the cups. GTO right, LS1 left
Running a Hawks short throw shifter
Bought a ticks remote bleeder for the ease of bleeding hydraulics
Checked to make sure driveshaft goes in without issue before i mount
Below is the pedal mounted as well as Atomic's bracket
So the reason why it was such a pain to get pedal in was i drilled in the wrong spot. Now i probably had my head up my *** but I can see how someone can get confused because the pictures around are not very clear so I have one for anyone that runs into this again. So before I cut hole you will see on the left a raised circle that i THOUGHT was where you punch it...nope nope i spent hours each day trying to get pedal bracket installed cutting plastic etc. Had a friend second opinion and he said well you punched hole in wrong spot...see the DIMPLE not raised circle to the far right...so i had to grind little more and once there pedal went in like butter. didnt have to take dash out....you learn by doing
Below is the different crossmembers for reference
Since im running a GTO trans I switched out the cups. GTO right, LS1 left
Running a Hawks short throw shifter
Bought a ticks remote bleeder for the ease of bleeding hydraulics
Checked to make sure driveshaft goes in without issue before i mount
Below is the pedal mounted as well as Atomic's bracket
So the reason why it was such a pain to get pedal in was i drilled in the wrong spot. Now i probably had my head up my *** but I can see how someone can get confused because the pictures around are not very clear so I have one for anyone that runs into this again. So before I cut hole you will see on the left a raised circle that i THOUGHT was where you punch it...nope nope i spent hours each day trying to get pedal bracket installed cutting plastic etc. Had a friend second opinion and he said well you punched hole in wrong spot...see the DIMPLE not raised circle to the far right...so i had to grind little more and once there pedal went in like butter. didnt have to take dash out....you learn by doing
#57
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Bleed the slave a little bit and have a firm pedal but I need to go and drive to check it out. Temporarily twisted the purple/white and yellow wires on the plug together and was able to start my truck so the wiring is partially right. So i went to install driveline and one side of the u joint would fit in the diff yoke but the other was off by a little and couldnt figure out why because the 4l60e and t56 are same length. I pulled the drive line off and one of the caps fell off and needles went everywhere, the other side was just as bad. So i am assuming that was the problem, sending it to machine shop to get two new u joints and balanced. u joints had 150k miles on them so not sure if that means they were over due or not. Garage floor is dirty i know, i swept it after the picture haha. Its always something...
#58
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
So I have everything done. Started up my truck and I can’t shift it into gear while the truck is running. I have the pedal all the way to the ground. Brand new slave, master, and clutch kit. I shifts into gear flawless while turned off. Any ideas? Shims? I haven’t seen many adjustable masters for a truck.
#59
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
update
Once i got my t56 in I drove it around and enjoyed it. Spent time working on the tune which still has some bugs i think. Month or two went by and got bored and wanted a new project. I already have everything except spark plug wires to relocate my coils and after seeing ILUVJDM relocate his i prompted me to finish mine as well. My wires were stock and worn so bought some MSD relocate wires. Also bought some TechFLex loom to start wrapping hoses and wires up. I will also take the time and move my harness off the top of my intake because it looks horrible and is rubbing the top of it. below is a picture of my hurst shifter, nothing special but had to remove my middle seat. I like the way it looks with it out anyways and no one ever rides in the middle.
Since i had this crossmember off I decided to take off the nasty coating from factory that always falls on my face when i work under my truck. It was a pain
Got it all painted up now
If your ever wondering what kind of mess wiring the coil harness looks like. The wires are in horrible condition being next to heat a lot, so thinking about either redoing this harness or just getting one off ebay for cheap that is already cleaned up.
I also have a question on the steamlines. Right now i have the line running over the top of my throttle body which is ugly. From what i have read people tap into their water pump for easy access and no long lines to run. But con is that you ruin the integrity of it. I had to put spacers in for my pump to run ls3 intake and I should have got the ones with the steam line built in. In the picture below i have it circled in red a place where i can tap it, but curious if i do will fluid come pouring out the top?
Since i had this crossmember off I decided to take off the nasty coating from factory that always falls on my face when i work under my truck. It was a pain
Got it all painted up now
If your ever wondering what kind of mess wiring the coil harness looks like. The wires are in horrible condition being next to heat a lot, so thinking about either redoing this harness or just getting one off ebay for cheap that is already cleaned up.
I also have a question on the steamlines. Right now i have the line running over the top of my throttle body which is ugly. From what i have read people tap into their water pump for easy access and no long lines to run. But con is that you ruin the integrity of it. I had to put spacers in for my pump to run ls3 intake and I should have got the ones with the steam line built in. In the picture below i have it circled in red a place where i can tap it, but curious if i do will fluid come pouring out the top?