Last night was a 13.83 and a 13.9 somethin. I did pull off my best 60' though it did a 2.105

 

Went to the track last night for another diesel night. I ended up with my best time yet, a 13.63 i think I still got to take a picture of the slip. I got my best 60' too, a 2.099, which isnt that much better than the last one but still. I think I also broke the record for most boost made on a stock 4l80 stall, the the 13.6 run I just held the throttle for longer than usual to build boost and the turbo lit and went up to about 7 psi. I also took it out of 4wd once it got into second, I dont really know if it helped or even if it disengauged. I was playing with the boost controller too and if I bring the boost up to 12-13 the truck falls on its face in the top end cause of the iats getting too high so its pretty happy at 11.

So I think thats all shes got with the setup I have now. The only thing that might make it go faster is racing at the very end of the season when its hopefully in the 40s, cause I know votec350ss ran his best time when it was 45 outside. I was also planning on making an intake for the turbo to go right out my headlight hole and not run a filter just for the track and see if that makes a difference

So like mentioned meth is my best bet... Theres a snow kit for sale I saw that was the stage 2 that uses the map to be progressive. I know that everyone recommends devils own or alky but Im not going for all out race truck here so it doesnt have to be super fancy. Or at least that what I thought I havent seen any horror stories with the snow kit yet.

Id also like to be able to launch a little easier and harder (not hold 3/4 throttle and wait like 5 seconds for the turbo to spool), I was debating about which would be better a stall or msd 2 step but I feel like a stall Id benefit from more. I know stalls and towing dont go together but I dont tow a ton and id only want somewhere around a 2800. I know theres a bunch of people who make stall but whos got good quality but doesnt break the bank (I know I know those two things dont go together)

The other thing I was wondering was if its worth the money and effort of putting in a 4" IC if do meth, itd be same dimensions as my 3" now but itd be thicker

And on a side not once in a while if my truck idles long enough itll start smoking from burning oil from the turbo seal I assume and I have no ideal why except that On3 makes shitty seals or I got a shitty seal... Definitely gonna shell out the money for a BW next upgrade

 

Meth is always a good thing.

 

That intercooler looks suspicious. The core has way too much area for ambient air and not enough area for boost. There only appears to be 7 tubes passing boost. Anybody else see that? Seems like an overly restrictive intercooler could be the root of your iat and power problems.

 

<p>The weather this fall will definitely be your friend. You will see huge improvements. Especially if IAT's are a big concern on the back half of the track right now. Your turbo will work a lot less to maintain the current boost levels and will be more efficient at higher boost.&nbsp;</p>

 

Its a CX racing intercooler from ebay, and CX racing was one of the better ebay brands I thought....

Heres the 4" one, i dont know if its different from my current one


JGTurbo I see the picture you saw now and because of the angle it looks like theres only 7 passages but theres 15 like the intercooler I just posted

 

^ that intercooler looks like the style I'm used to seeing. I'd recommend stepping up to the 4". Your engine will be happier with the lower IATs. 150+ seems really hot for post intercooler temp on 12psi. For comparison, I'm running this little 2.5" thick intercooler on my 4cyl and my IATs don't even break 100F in the 1/4 mile at 15psi:

 

One more note:

Is your wastegate boost line plumbed pre-intercooler? Is your boost gauge plumbed post-intercooler?

If so, a restrictive intercooler would cause the boost to drop at higher RPM like you were seeing before. Also, if that's the case and you installed the boost controller a certain way, it would fix the boost drop issue, but the intake temps would go through the roof...

Could that be what's happening?

 

Boost gauge is off the intake manifold and WG is referenced after IC but before TB