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6.0 Stick Shift Tahoe (NV4500)

Old May 11, 2020 | 11:14 PM
  #131  
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From: cold & windy
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we said the 14bolt was stronger... not bulletproof
sorry, man
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Old May 11, 2020 | 11:14 PM
  #132  
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Its not the 14 bolt that couldn't take it. It was that shitty U-Joint that was installed.

Never Ever use one of those greasable joints . They Always snap like that in a performance application. They are hollow inside to allow the grease to flow through them but that weakens them.
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Old May 11, 2020 | 11:44 PM
  #133  
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Since you said you couldn't find a non-greaseable one, I found one for you:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Yukon-Gear/807/YUJ1153/10002/-1

it's cheaper some other places, but there you go. I don't know what my shop used when they did mine. I originally brought them the wrong one and they ordered one for me


https://threepedals.com/products/rea...-1350-u-joint/

looks like according to this page 10bs and 14bs use the same yoke, so if that's true you can put your 10b yoke on and use a 3R to 3R and go break that 😂


this page provides you everything you need to Florida proof the drive coupling:
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/14-bo...-treated!/4319

your bois at MWE charging 2 kidneys and a ********:
https://www.markwilliams.com/39085.html
Or

https://www.markwilliams.com/39385.html
+
https://www.markwilliams.com/3-2-1699.html

Last edited by arthursc2; May 12, 2020 at 12:11 AM.
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Old May 12, 2020 | 06:44 AM
  #134  
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From: At the dump with a clutch
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Its not the 14 bolt that couldn't take it. It was that shitty U-Joint that was installed.

Never Ever use one of those greasable joints . They Always snap like that in a performance application. They are hollow inside to allow the grease to flow through them but that weakens them.
Do you think the U joint was the culprit? I know those greasable joints aren't the best but the previous joint with the 10b was a greasable unit and it survived similar torture.

Thank you for the links if they have one solid joint in stock in town that's what I'll get if not I'll live with a greasable one until I order one.

That's interesting about the yokes because I thought I read that the 14b yoke was an inch or so longer.

Should be rolling again this evening I'm just glad the gas tank is okay.
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Old May 12, 2020 | 10:18 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Its not the 14 bolt that couldn't take it. It was that shitty U-Joint that was installed.

Never Ever use one of those greasable joints . They Always snap like that in a performance application. They are hollow inside to allow the grease to flow through them but that weakens them.
oh, i thunk the yoke gived out.
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Old May 12, 2020 | 10:48 AM
  #136  
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From: At the dump with a clutch
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Arthur had a decent theory that it was dropped on the yoke at the junk yard which caused a hairline fracture. The axle did appear to have been bang around by a fork lift the cover was dented really bad and the underside of the pinion was scrapped up pretty bad.
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Old May 12, 2020 | 12:22 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by dantheman1540
Do you think the U joint was the culprit? I know those greasable joints aren't the best but the previous joint with the 10b was a greasable unit and it survived similar torture.

Thank you for the links if they have one solid joint in stock in town that's what I'll get if not I'll live with a greasable one until I order one.

That's interesting about the yokes because I thought I read that the 14b yoke was an inch or so longer.

Should be rolling again this evening I'm just glad the gas tank is okay.
Originally Posted by _zebra
oh, i thunk the yoke gived out.
Originally Posted by dantheman1540
Arthur had a decent theory that it was dropped on the yoke at the junk yard which caused a hairline fracture. The axle did appear to have been bang around by a fork lift the cover was dented really bad and the underside of the pinion was scrapped up pretty bad.
I absolutely believe 100% it was the U joint that failed first.

Look at where the U-joint broke. On the Drive shaft side at the caps. This bound up and ripped the ear off the Yoke. Notice the cap and bearings just slid out from being stretched.

If it broke the Ear off the yoke first, it would have tore the ends up on that side of the joint and it would still be attached at the drive shaft.

If you look at other that used this type of U joint they have had similar results. I know there was a few on this forum but I forget who the users where.
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Old May 12, 2020 | 12:32 PM
  #138  
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From: At the dump with a clutch
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Buddy got it all fixed up already. The driveshaft shop said it was likely the U joint that failed first because the greasable joints are terrible. They recommend getting the shaft redone to accept a 1350 and getting a solid 1350 joint with billet straps. The new joint is greasable but has a C clamp rather than being press fit so maybe it will hold up until it get the drive shaft re-worked.


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Old May 12, 2020 | 12:33 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
I absolutely believe 100% it was the U joint that failed first.

Look at where the U-joint broke. On the Drive shaft side at the caps. This bound up and ripped the ear off the Yoke. Notice the cap and bearings just slid out from being stretched.

If it broke the Ear off the yoke first, it would have tore the ends up on that side of the joint and it would still be attached at the drive shaft.

If you look at other that used this type of U joint they have had similar results. I know there was a few on this forum but I forget who the users where.

That damn disapproving cat is right again
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Old May 12, 2020 | 12:37 PM
  #140  
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From: JunkYard
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Originally Posted by dantheman1540
That damn disapproving cat is right again


I would definitely get a 1350 Set up when you get re-worked. Great insurance!
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