You will need to run pistons specific to L92 heads as the valve reliefs are cut different. That cam isnt very good for L92 heads especially if youre going to spray it. Most good running L92 cams are about 20*s smaller and have a 10+ * split. L92 heads dont need the same amount of duration to get the same amount of power as cathedral port heads. People are putting down 500+ to the ground with 23X* cams with L92 setups.

Kyle is running scat rods and he has boosted his up to 20#s by mistake before so I wouldnt worry about the rods too terribly much, and eagle rods have seen 1000rwhp before so IMO the money is better spent elsewhere unless youre planning on spinning to the moon and need a lightweight rotating assembly, but then you need to ditch the diamonds to as usually from what Ive seen they tend to be 50+ grams heavier than a wiseco or je piston. Maybe theyve changed in the last couple years but that was the case when I was going through my 418 and 420 ordeal.

 

interesting. I made 2 posts #12 and #13 earlier today and now neither of them are here.

Definitely going to get the L92 dish pistons. Probably go with Wiseco since I'll likely be shifting ~7200. Unless the diamonds are as light.
Do we have any data that shows how big of a cam you can use on the l92 heads? I figured they flowed well enough to handle. Sure guys are making good power with 23x but what about the guys with 24x? are they making less? Not calling you out, just trying to understand it so I know why i'm buying what parts for my engine.

Also I'm going to hold off on purchasing some of the parts right now as I just got word today that I won a bid on 2 trucks for $2800. This will give me more time to decide what parts to get and should be a financial help.

Getting a rolled 02 Silverado ECSB 4x4 and 00 Silverado ECSB 4x4 with a bad G80, rust under the driver door and a dent in the hood. Figure I can fix and sell the 00, use that money to pay off my truck ~4000, use the rest towards the build and have an extra 400 per month to play with.

 

It was ION Nittrated and Some one cleaned up the rough casting cause it was the white thing to do... But some one didn't want it knife edged... I guess it wasn't in the budget

 

What exactly does that do to the crank?

 

Reduces windage losses from the crank slinging oil around. I wouldnt worry about it unless I was building a very high rpm engine.

 

Here is a explanaion of Ion Nitriding from wiki;

"Plasma nitriding, also known as ion nitriding, plasma ion nitriding or glow-discharge nitriding, is an industrial surface hardening treatment for metallic materials.

In plasma nitriding, the reactivity of the nitriding media is not due to the temperature but to the gas ionized state. In this technique intense electric fields are used to generate ionized molecules of the gas around the surface to be nitrided. Such highly active gas with ionized molecules is called plasma, naming the technique. The gas used for plasma nitriding is usually pure nitrogen, since no spontaneous decomposition is needed (as is the case of gas nitriding with amonia). There are hot plasmas typified by plasma jets used for metal cutting, welding, cladding or spraying. There are also cold plasmas, usually generated inside vacuum chambers, at low pressure regimes.

Usually steels are very beneficially treated with plasma nitriding. Plasma nitriding advantage is related to the close control of the nitrided microstructure, allowing nitriding with or without compound layer formation. Not only the performance of metal parts gets enhanced but working lifespan gets boosted. So does the strain limit, and the fatigue strength of the metals being treated.

A plasma nitrided part is usually ready for use. It calls for no machining, or polishing or any other post-nitriding operations. Thus the process is user-friendly, saves energy since it works fastest, and causes little or no distortion."

Basically they slowly heat the part up to I believe around 900* using an electric coil and they introduce nitrogen gas
It helps realign the molecules and groups them tighter. It makes the part stronger, and it last longer.

 

hmm... I doubt the machine shop around here does anything like that but I'd be interested in checking. I want the internals to handle anything I throw at it. If I decide I want 750RWHP then I don't want to have to upgrade the internals, I want them done right the first time. That would definitely add security.
If I did that then I'd feel more comfortable with the 7k rpm shift points I plan on. Should this be done on the crank only or the entire rotating assembly?

 

If u need some bare L92 heads hit me up man I got a brand new pair that I won't be using

 

I'd prefer some that already have valves and retainers at least but I'll keep you in mind when I'm ready to buy some.

 

Why do u want to spin it so high?