SamuelsonMotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Yes- there was some issues easily fixed with a sawzall. On the passenger side, the transmission has a useless tab that sticks out about 2" next to the starter. If you trim it flush with the starter, all problems solved (and you have extra room instead of just a **** hair) and on the driverside, no issues at all. Both headers install easily from the bottom if your truck is on a pair of cheap Rhino 6" ramps. Suspension is stock, but did have keys in it last march for Muddigras. Returned it back to stock after muddigras due to the rough ride and crappy CV joint angles. IFS trucks aren't meant to be lifted IMO- Frankly, I'd rather put a solid axle up front if I WAS to offroad this truck seriously. Instead, I bought a 85 K20 Silverado AFTER muddigras specifically for Muddigras. Dropped in a rebuild 350 with a mild cam, upswept drag headers and a edelbrock carb. Still need to put tractor mufflers on it and flapper valves and cut the holes in the hood and weld in the cage.... but thats the mudder project.

I would like to add that ARH does not currently offer headers specifically for the 2500HD and that I used the headers they did offer for the SS model and made them work. ARH makes fine headers! On other vehicles that they were designed for, I have had absolutely zero issues installing them.

As for pictures, if there was an easy way to take them with the iphone and post them directly here, I would. If you want, send your phone number via PM and I'll just take a few and shoot em to you.

ls2 dude

iTrader: (14)

i have a very similar build that you do right now, same 2500hd same everything just a different cam. if i were you like others suggest. go to the tbss intake and tb. i put it on my truck with long tubes only. i picked up 20hp all through the powerband. i actually have an extra ill be selling soon.

SamuelsonMotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Think I'll be dropping on a NNBS intake and 90mm TB sometime in the next few months, that or a Edelbrock super victor w/ elbow and 95mm TB setup.

Can't decide if I want to find a D1SC procharger setup or a Kenne Bell, but definitely thinking about just boosting it. I'd just need to change the cam again. If I do get a NNBS intake, I will redyno and post results.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

Having a front mount turbo lifted K2500hd truck was one of the funnest trucks I've ever owned. Plus 4wd burnouts on 35's were awesome.

53bowtie

iTrader: (6)

Just curious if you ever found the restriction or any other problems that contributed to the seemingly low numbers? I am going to be building my Lq9 in he near future and I, like you, though the stock intake would be good for close to 400 rwhp. If you find that is not the case, however, I will have to start looking into the NNBS myself. Thanks!

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Im just curious did you verify the cam was cut right??? Did you actually degree it???

MPFD

iTrader: (5)

Did you change the MAP sensor? the NNBS take a different part number and the pins for signal and reference swap pins in the new connector. I found this on my truck when I switched it over. It was showing high Kpa cause the reference pin was seeing input voltage. You might double check this.

SamuelsonMotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Update:

With a stock airbox bottom with holes cut everywhere, a K&N filter, 11' Silverado Lid with newer style maf (still 5 wire) but not a card style maf (round opening, not square but bolts into upper lid) with 3 1/2" straight pipe from box to TB using a big silicone 90, NNBS intake, FAST 92mm TB and nothing else changed (same ported heads, cam, headers ect) I still make under 340rwhp.

Peak power never shifted- no idea why it has a restriction.

Fun fact- I put the "filter minder" back on the stock upper lid and I use it as a "who floored my truck" indicator- Everytime you go WOT, It will suck the filter minder down to "70% filter life left" so I think that K&N isn't enough, BUT its not stealing too much power so its there for now and will stay awhile longer.

Wiring on the MAP didn't change, tried 3 other MAP sensors (1 was the original sensor) and still, at WOT after about 4700 (its been awhile, I don't remember the exact rpm) you drop from 99Kpa to about 92-91Kpa.

Still a fat restriction somewhere. Haven't been back to the dyno to figure out WHAT, but I killed the transmission about 2 months after this thread/last post and haven't touched the truck.

I have this curse about killing transmissions and then abandoning vehicles...
I should be putting in a JET trannie sometime this summer. Goodbye 4,600 dollars!