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Similarly, still stock tuning on mine, I towed my race truck and trailer to the track last week, probably 7k-7500lb total and truck did great. Used tow mode most of the time and have zero complaints.
Didn't mean for it to get too off track and really wanted to know what you had found if anything after the posts in the other thread. I didn't see you post there anymore and was curious.
You may be right about "built in slip". I can't find documentation that says otherwise but for a long time electronically shifted transmissions used PWM and variable line pressure to slowly apply the clutches under light throttle and they did slip on engagement. I thought they got rid of that when they went adaptive shift with the 6L and 8L transmissions and used tq management instead. It's possible they are using both, or all 3, PWM, line pressure, and tq management, I can't find a document on it. Previous to electronically shifted they used vacuum modules to control line pressure to softly apply the clutches or firmly apply the clutches. Electronic transmission also do that and had the ability to PWM the shift solenoids.
Either way, I would call what your trans is doing normal. I wouldn't call that a slip or a flare because when you call it a flare or slip you generally mean it's problematic and going by your own words it "slips/flares" but also "has nothing wrong with it" so I just don't know what that means.
Took the boys out for some riding and finally got to work the truck in the mountains. I left the cruise on at 55 and let it do it’s thing. The truck didn’t sweat the incline at all. On the decline it would kick into the hill decent mode and down shift 4 gears to try to hold the cruise speed. I stopped doing that because it was sitting at like 5k rpm lol.
Locked it in 4x4 and climbed the trail going up the mountain side. She was spinning all four and working through the mud and grass.
Just hit 25K miles and heading into my 3rd oil change. Along with rotating the tires, I'm going to clean/inspect the brakes and take the catch can apart and clean it. I've noticed it doesn't catch as much oil as I'm used to seeing and I want to make sure everything is good. Might even have time to install my hellwig rear sway bar.
Tires are wearing pretty even, I rotate them every oil change.
I took the brakes apart for cleaning and inspection. All four corners had a bit of dust build up in the pad relief cuts. I cleaned them out and added a little anti seeze to the back of the pads where the piston and brackets ride. As far as pad life, they look brand new.
I took the throttle body off and wiped the inside of the intake manifold for oil. There was some in here but not much at all. 25K miles produced the same amount of oil in the intake as ~1,000 without the catch can. Zero oil came out of the can again. The check valves are not functioning correctly ( I can blow through them ). The next time I'm in the shop, I'll remove the check valves (I'm NA and don't really need them) and I'll disassemble the catch can to see if its plugged up or anything. I would think I should still be catching the vapors and I'm not. I'm thinking something is up.
I'm up to 19.3 now average over 26K miles lol
I finally got around to installing my Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar.
- Back the truck up onto 6 inches of 2x4s. this will give you plenty of room to crawl around and keep the weight on the suspension.
- Drop the spare ( always good to randomly do so it doesn't rust up here in Buffalo )
- stacked some pieces of 4x4s to hold up the bar to the axle while getting the brackets/bolts started. These are the two larger U bolts.
- used one of the supplied little tubes of grease on the D shape rubber bushings
- installed the axle brackets and u bolts holding the sway bar up. Removed pieces of wood. The bar will hang now.
- installed the cross member brackets. These are the two smaller U bolts. Driver side bracket is off set. Pass side is reg bracket.
- built and installed the end links connecting the bar to the cross member brackets. Use the other tube of grease on the bushings. I put a little anti seeze on the rod end threads.
- hand tighten every bolt
- start finding the sweet spot for the axle brackets, sway bar, end links and cross member brackets.
As stated in the instructions, the axle brackets should be at an angle. the sway bar should be as parallel to the ground as possible. The end links should be as perpendicular to the ground as possible. It took me a couple min to move things a little here and a little there but I got it all lined up. I used a measure tape at random spots on the bar and brackets from the floor to make sure my eyes were working. A 12 inch level is also useful.
- torque the nuts to the spec in the instructions.
- take turns at a stupid speeds with the tilt degree info screen on the dash.
I had one hassle and it was my own fault. I installed the endlinks on the inside of the sway bar and finished up the job. Then the fing spare tire wouldn't fit back up into its spot. it hit both end links. I had to take the cross members brackets and move the en links to the outside of the bar. re torque everything and put the spare tire back up. Damnit.
I 100% noticed the difference in the first on ramp turn I take daily. I always set the cruise at 45mph. This time the trucks barely rolled. My setting on the bar is in the middle. I set it this way just because. I don't know if I'll change it or not but right now, I'm very happy with the product and the results.
I love the bar Choda. If I ever get to completely unload mine I think it would help a lot but loaded it handles great with the Rancho 9000's.
Pooter I wish mine was E85.
06-21-2019, 09:18 PM
