2000 Chevy Silverado project "Charlie Murphy"
#132
That wouldn't make any difference. Either flexplate setup puts the ring gear and the converter pads in the same place.
For the OP, it looks like it needs shimmed a little bit. Didn't your converter come with instructions? The spec on that gap is on the instruction sheet.
For the OP, it looks like it needs shimmed a little bit. Didn't your converter come with instructions? The spec on that gap is on the instruction sheet.
#133
Looking back at his pic, I think that's a 5.3 flexplate. (I was on my phone earlier and the pic was too small). And his converter is most likely a dual-pattern pad front. Meaning, it has 3 bolt spacing for the LS engines, and it also has the 3 bolt spacing for the LT engines. (LT1, LT4, etc).
#134
LOL. I know, I'm an idiot.
I bought the torque converter out of the classifieds here on this site. I thought that it was a 6 bolt pattern converter with 80E splines on it.
It turns out I was mistaken. It's a dual bolt pattern converter with 80E splines. I believe it's LS and LT patterns.
That's why if you look closely, you can see where I drew arrows to indicate what mounts to use.
I never did get around to measuring the gap.
Yup! I was writing the reply when you wrote this.
You are correct sir.
So I painted my 40K cooler black. I didn't want to be able to notice the silver behind my grill. I think I'm going to paint my intercooler as well.
I painted several very light coats. You can still see through it pretty easily so hopefully it doesn't effect cooling to much.

After that I bolted down the wiring loom/breather hose to the top bolt on the bell housing. I also tightened down the other 4 bolts.
I removed this bracket from the 4L80E. I modified it so I could mount an existing bracket from the 60E to the 80E. That way the lines are secure.

I drilled a second hole that clocks this bracket downward. Then I straightened out the top part so it could meet the existing bracket.

I moved the fuel and brake line bracket rearward about 4 inches. Then I bolted it to the 80E bracket with a wing nut.

Bad picture, but the transfer case is bolted to the transmission and the transmission is bolted to the engine. Yay!

I have to go to work so I won't be able to get back at it for about 5 days.
I still need to fab up a cooler mount, connect the cooler lines, and figure out the wiring. Hopefully, I can take care of that research while I'm at work. LOL.
I agree completely on the spacing. I asked about the converter because I can’t tell if it has the 11", 11.5" or both bolt patterns. Picture shows a 6 lug convertor and Justin has a salvage yard 6.0 that possibly came with the 6 hole flexplate, spacer and bolts. Why not use all six lugs?
It turns out I was mistaken. It's a dual bolt pattern converter with 80E splines. I believe it's LS and LT patterns.
That's why if you look closely, you can see where I drew arrows to indicate what mounts to use.
I never did get around to measuring the gap.
Looking back at his pic, I think that's a 5.3 flexplate. (I was on my phone earlier and the pic was too small). And his converter is most likely a dual-pattern pad front. Meaning, it has 3 bolt spacing for the LS engines, and it also has the 3 bolt spacing for the LT engines. (LT1, LT4, etc).
You are correct sir.
So I painted my 40K cooler black. I didn't want to be able to notice the silver behind my grill. I think I'm going to paint my intercooler as well.
I painted several very light coats. You can still see through it pretty easily so hopefully it doesn't effect cooling to much.

After that I bolted down the wiring loom/breather hose to the top bolt on the bell housing. I also tightened down the other 4 bolts.
I removed this bracket from the 4L80E. I modified it so I could mount an existing bracket from the 60E to the 80E. That way the lines are secure.

I drilled a second hole that clocks this bracket downward. Then I straightened out the top part so it could meet the existing bracket.

I moved the fuel and brake line bracket rearward about 4 inches. Then I bolted it to the 80E bracket with a wing nut.

Bad picture, but the transfer case is bolted to the transmission and the transmission is bolted to the engine. Yay!

I have to go to work so I won't be able to get back at it for about 5 days.
I still need to fab up a cooler mount, connect the cooler lines, and figure out the wiring. Hopefully, I can take care of that research while I'm at work. LOL.
#136
So do I have this right? I've been researching wiring setups for my 80E swap.
My 80E has a plug in the front connector, and the rear connector is plugged off. I'm planning on doing the single relay setup with PWM disabled.
So for the multipin connector, I need to remove pins S and U and insert pin U into pin S. Pin S is no longer used.
On the 80E, the ISS connector is the front and the VSS connector is the rear right?
Now since I'm using a relay, there is no need for the ISS sensor, correct?
So both of my plugs on the 80E are left unplugged?
Something else I'm unclear on is the wiring for the NVG149. My factory transfercase had 5 connections. The 149 has 1. The 1 connection on the 149 is for the VSS, correct?
I'm not sure what plug on my factory harness I'm supposed to use in the 149.
My 80E has a plug in the front connector, and the rear connector is plugged off. I'm planning on doing the single relay setup with PWM disabled.
So for the multipin connector, I need to remove pins S and U and insert pin U into pin S. Pin S is no longer used.
On the 80E, the ISS connector is the front and the VSS connector is the rear right?
Now since I'm using a relay, there is no need for the ISS sensor, correct?
So both of my plugs on the 80E are left unplugged?
Something else I'm unclear on is the wiring for the NVG149. My factory transfercase had 5 connections. The 149 has 1. The 1 connection on the 149 is for the VSS, correct?
I'm not sure what plug on my factory harness I'm supposed to use in the 149.
#137
Okay, so I PM'ed black04 asking his advice on my 80E/149 wiring. It turns out I had it right.
He's been a great help.
I got a tiny bit more done yesterday. I fabbed up my transmission cooler mount.
Well, if you call fabricating making 2 cuts and drilling several holes into a piece of flat stock. LOL.

Then I painted them black so they'd blend in.

I need to wait for the paint to dry before I install everything. I'll snap a pic when it's all said and done.
I started looking at the transmission crossmember. When I first installed it I was confused. I wondered if I had the transmission to the side somehow.

Nope, I just had the crossmember on backwards. What's funny is how closely it actually aligns.
So I removed the crossmember and installed it correctly. The transmission mount is now centered with the transmission.

I didn't measure it, but it appears the mount is rearward about 3 inches.
I have a few ideas on what I should do.
I could cut the existing mount off and reweld it back on in the appropriate spot. Probably just turn it around.
Or, I could add a flat piece of steel to the existing mount and then brace it. I'd redrill holes for the transmission mount in its new location.
What do you guys think?
He's been a great help.
I got a tiny bit more done yesterday. I fabbed up my transmission cooler mount.
Well, if you call fabricating making 2 cuts and drilling several holes into a piece of flat stock. LOL.

Then I painted them black so they'd blend in.

I need to wait for the paint to dry before I install everything. I'll snap a pic when it's all said and done.
I started looking at the transmission crossmember. When I first installed it I was confused. I wondered if I had the transmission to the side somehow.

Nope, I just had the crossmember on backwards. What's funny is how closely it actually aligns.
So I removed the crossmember and installed it correctly. The transmission mount is now centered with the transmission.

I didn't measure it, but it appears the mount is rearward about 3 inches.
I have a few ideas on what I should do.
I could cut the existing mount off and reweld it back on in the appropriate spot. Probably just turn it around.
Or, I could add a flat piece of steel to the existing mount and then brace it. I'd redrill holes for the transmission mount in its new location.
What do you guys think?
Last edited by iregret; Nov 7, 2012 at 11:08 PM.
#139
#140
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
I couldnt find a picture of just the crossmember, but I left the stock one there and welded in some flat stock 2.5" towards the rear and drilled slots.

Is yours 2wd or 4wd?

Is yours 2wd or 4wd?






