NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

Spray plus boost

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Old May 21, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #11  
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Hope you have a good fuel pump also.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
Just need to have a good IC. I know it is hard for you maggie guys to grasp with your big ole heat pumps
Yeah, I have a water to air IC. I think the twin screw blowers don't make as much heat as the roots either, I've ran my truck real hard for a little while, got out and felt the IC heat exchanger and it's never been hot to the touch.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nonnieselman
Hope you have a good fuel pump also.
Oh yeah, definitely need to sure up the fuel system. I was looking at one of two options. Either go with a high output in-tank pump, or adding a stand-alone fuel system just for the nitrous. NX makes a nice one, it's a one gallon fuel cell with it's own pump and regulator that supplies the N2O system with fuel. It fits in the factory spare battery tray. I think it seems pretty slick, you can put whatever you want in it, pump gas, race fuel, whatever.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nonnieselman
Ive run 6psi with a 50 shot, and also run 9psi with the 50 shot..
100 shot is a big step.
Id start out at 50 and work it up slow and see what happens.. Pulling timing each step to make sure.
Good sound advice, that's what I'm after. Thanks
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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If the tune is good u will be ok. But if it get any ping it will crack the pistons. I know!! I have ran nos on lot of difference car. I'm going to run 30lb of boost and a 50shot on the GTR but that on good pistons and etc. Stock pistons do'nt like ping!!!!!!
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Race gas would deff help!
keep the AFRs around 11.0-11.2 to be safe and pull timing and work it back in slowly.

I had a single Walbro 255 and on 9# and the 50 shot it was loosing pressure from 4500+

i know its not apples to apples.. but i had a 60mm rear mount turbo and the 50 shot on 6psi added 64hp and 90ftlb torque at the wheels at 10.8 AFR. bone stock LQ4.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
Just need to have a good IC. I know it is hard for you maggie guys to grasp with your big ole heat pumps
LOL
Originally Posted by $ierraLY5
Yeah, I have a water to air IC. I think the twin screw blowers don't make as much heat as the roots either, I've ran my truck real hard for a little while, got out and felt the IC heat exchanger and it's never been hot to the touch.
I wouldn't go by "touch" I would be logging IAT and seeing what they do.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ak2007r6
LOL


I wouldn't go by "touch" I would be logging IAT and seeing what they do.


I agree.. "touch" doesnt tell you what the IAT is at the top of a 0-100mph run.
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Old May 21, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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I can do a pull from 0-110 and see IAT's reach 145-150 at the end of the pull. Drive for half a mile and they are back down to 20-30 above ambient.

Logging is the only way to know for sure what they are doing, especially if you plan to do back to back pulls
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ak2007r6
I can do a pull from 0-110 and see IAT's reach 145-150 at the end of the pull. Drive for half a mile and they are back down to 20-30 above ambient.

Logging is the only way to know for sure what they are doing, especially if you plan to do back to back pulls
Good stuff, thanks,
I think my reasoning for not simply adding more boost instead of spraying is that I will be keeping IATs down by spraying and gaining the oxygen density back that I'm losing at my altitude.
So I'm kinda liking the idea of running around with only 8psi most of the time and only stressing the motor with another 100-120hp when I need to, like at the track, or, eh, the occasional "unsanctioned" race event.
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