NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

nitrous install advice

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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:58 PM
  #1  
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Default nitrous install advice

Ok, i have had my nitrous kit on for a while now. not quite a year but close enough. During my install, i did the electrical wiring in the cab and used some cheaper switches if you will from a local auto parts store.

My wiring was done correctly and effectively. However, over time my heater control switch started getting weak. it was still working and it was something i knew i was going to replace soon but i wanted that last little bit of use out of it before i changed up what i had done.

so i am on my way to work and decide, it's cold enough outside, let me heat the bottle up and see what the nitrous will do in cold air . (never used it in cold temps) low and behold, 5 mins after i turn the heater on, my damn switch starts smoking . the bastard finally let go on me. i had to pull over and start taking the dash apart to get that switch unhooked.

i cut all wires to the kit to ensure there would be no use till this problem is fixed .


MORAL OF THE STORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

when you go to install a nitrous kit (or any electrical components) use good parts. don't settle for the cheaper stuff you can find. If it cost a few bucks more to buy a switch that will last a thousand pushes on and off, buy it. Also, use good wire. Had i not used good wire from my electrical class i was taking, i have a feeling my truck would have burned. The wire did a damn fine job of keeping the plastic on (even though it was hot and was getting gooey.)

I now have a job ahead of me to rewire the nitrous stuff, but it will also give me the opportunity to rewire my stereo stuff as well for a clean install.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by goshawk23
Ok, i have had my nitrous kit on for a while now. not quite a year but close enough. During my install, i did the electrical wiring in the cab and used some cheaper switches if you will from a local auto parts store.

My wiring was done correctly and effectively. However, over time my heater control switch started getting weak. it was still working and it was something i knew i was going to replace soon but i wanted that last little bit of use out of it before i changed up what i had done.

so i am on my way to work and decide, it's cold enough outside, let me heat the bottle up and see what the nitrous will do in cold air . (never used it in cold temps) low and behold, 5 mins after i turn the heater on, my damn switch starts smoking . the bastard finally let go on me. i had to pull over and start taking the dash apart to get that switch unhooked.

i cut all wires to the kit to ensure there would be no use till this problem is fixed .


MORAL OF THE STORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

when you go to install a nitrous kit (or any electrical components) use good parts. don't settle for the cheaper stuff you can find. If it cost a few bucks more to buy a switch that will last a thousand pushes on and off, buy it. Also, use good wire. Had i not used good wire from my electrical class i was taking, i have a feeling my truck would have burned. The wire did a damn fine job of keeping the plastic on (even though it was hot and was getting gooey.)

I now have a job ahead of me to rewire the nitrous stuff, but it will also give me the opportunity to rewire my stereo stuff as well for a clean install.
Here...here...stop being a cheap bastard and start using the good APC switches!!!
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:40 PM
  #3  
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you shut up. your *** used some of my cheap switches too. your just lucky i was further along in my electrical classes and kept you from burning your truck up.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 11:42 AM
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It is not necessarly a cheap switch but some times there are just defective parts. You could have just changed the switch out and would have been fine. I have been using those 'cheap' switches in mine for over three years now.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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true. it could have been a bad switch.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
It is not necessarly a cheap switch but some times there are just defective parts. You could have just changed the switch out and would have been fine. I have been using those 'cheap' switches in mine for over three years now.
Nope...it was a cheap switch!!! He picked it up in the 99 cent bin at Freds, then talked me into buying some too. We caught my truck on fire the same night, so no one listen to John when it comes to toggle switches!!!!!

BTW.....truck looks awesome since coming out of the paint shop!!!!!
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:12 AM
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Well, in that case, it probablly was the switch. I though he was using the one of the switches we picked up at teh autoparts store. Also, for the heater switch, you are only using it to trigger a relay right? Any switch you use is going to have a hard time handling 250-300W (20-25A @ 12V) flow thru if the heater is hooked directly in series with it.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
Well, in that case, it probablly was the switch. I though he was using the one of the switches we picked up at teh autoparts store. Also, for the heater switch, you are only using it to trigger a relay right? Any switch you use is going to have a hard time handling 250-300W (20-25A @ 12V) flow thru if the heater is hooked directly in series with it.
He is using the parts store toggle....I'm just messing with him. Yeah, we're using the switch to trigger the relay. We had a connection touch a piece of metal when we first installed it, so we had to break out the old dremel tool and take care of that. The new install is so much better now though(I'm using the cargo lamp/fog light holes now with the rounded switches). Looks completely stock.
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