Those would probably help if I was having axle wrap problems, but I don't even hook hard enough on the street to have that problem. It's purely that the weight distribution is so biased to the front of the truck that there is not enough pressure back there to keep the tires planted. When I took 4 tires to the tire shop to get mounted, I had a bit better luck hooking at part throttle just because of the added weight in the back.

 

I see, time to mini tub and 4 link it?

 

did you go to the track with the slicks? There's no comparison whatsoever between a properly prepped track and some dusty, dirty street.

 

No, the ******** closed the track because of "weather conditions". It looks real nasty out in those videos right

The slicks hook up great at the track, I'd just never tried em on the street, and I was hoping they would work a tad better than they did.

 

Nah, I wouldn't expect them to work on the street either. Granted I've only been to the track once, but I was extremely surprised how hard I was able to hook on street tires (granted, at part throttle). This is a big NHRA track and the prep was great, so I have no doubt you'd hook hard off the line at WOT with good track prep.

 

In colder weather it launches real hard off the line. In warm weather with lots of heat soak, it's not quite as impressive

 

"The combination of these components changes the pushing point on the car by redirecting the turning action (spring wrap-up) of the rear axle through the Force Transfer Link into the Front Pivot. The Front Pivot Spring Stop Bolt resists this turning motion and also controls the bending of the leaf spring at its thinnest section. The push into the Front Pivot helps the cars weight shift towards the rear of the car because of a new directed angle of force toward the front of the vehicle. (The "Instant Center" moves farther forward). This is where the system emulates a Four link system. The pinion angle is also maintained."

an explanation of caltracs i found, they move the instant center further which helps weight transfer. Some of those and shocks and take the sway bar off when going to the track and you would see a ton of difference imo..

 

forget adding weight, and a 4 link. my 96 dead hooked practically on 325 dr's and a 4200 stall on the street. and i would hit the nitrous like 15 feet out or so. my wrinkle wall 29 inch tall slicks hooked even harder on any road i was on. they would just sqaut down and grab. you need to find the right tire and the "right" throttle foot. try holding the brake and getting it right above idle... not stalling it up. then ease into hard and give it a chance to let the rear sqaut then stuff the throttle to the wood and let it keep the *** planted and hang on. i NEVER came off the stall track or street always let it flash up from right above idle.

what tire you running and what rear gear. and does it have any suspension mods? i heard... mind you i said heard because i never personaly did see it. but i heard caltracs keep the rear from squating down hard which is not what you want on the street.

 

and my 96 was completely stock suspension with 2 inch shackle, 2 inch spindle and no overload. the shocks are mounted behind rear end though where my coilovers were, no traction bar of any sort ... leafs work better on the street then ladder bar.

 

I generally run 10-12psi on the ol slicks. Try looking at the black marks after a burnout and see if the pattern is smooth across from where the black marks are. If there is more rubber on the outside then the inside of the pattern means ya need to drop the air pressure down a few. Just the opposite if there is more rubber in the center and less on the outside.