what block? what set up? what price?
03-07-2008, 06:26 PM
#1
what block? what set up? what price?
I went by a local machine shop today with my 6.0 block and just ended up wanting more. This guy has new 7.0, lsX, Ls3, and ls2 blocks all over the palce. He has a full storage area of new blocks and told me I should get a new block and start from scratch. he priced me a 402 on a ls2 block with eagle internals for around 3600.00 no covers just block, internals, and machine work (deck, hone, line bore, and balance) all parts brand new including the ls2 block. I am just wondering how this price sounds and if I should go with this set up or something else using the ls3 block? I saw texas speed has 418 strokers for 4300 with covers and some senors. What do you guys think? This is going in my everyday driven 92 step side. The down side is if I do this I will have to buy a bigger motor for my 02 as it is suppose to be my race truck.
Last edited by Dark Halo; 03-07-2008 at 09:21 PM.
03-08-2008, 01:00 PM
#3
Sorry to state the obvious. Of course he wants you to start from scratch! 
That's how he makes money. He's a good salesman with a great sales floor of advertising potential, and it seems he worked his magic on you. An all iron LQ9 block with aluminum heads is a very capable platform for power, especially boosted. $3000+ for an LSx (not LSX) block and rotating assembly could be a GREAT start on a forced induction setup, preferably turbo.
If anything, just take your block and crank to a machine shop to have the block cleaned (usually sonic cleaning), magnafluxed, align honed, decks checked, bored 0.030" over with plates, cam bearings installed, threads chased and flushed and cleaned again. The crank should be checked for straightness, magnafluxed, journals ground, oil holes chamfered, balanced and then cleaned. Have the same machine shop order you 4130 rods, and because they're new have them checked for straightness, balanced total mass and end-to-end, cleaned and pistons pressed on or fitted for the right 0.030" over bore pistons. Once the pistons and rings are at the shop ready to go then finally have the block honed to fit each specific piston in it's own bore. This would end up being the total build for a 100,000+ mile turbocharged engine, or a 150k+ motor N/A.
Usually machine shops are willing to match any aftermarket store's prices to their own when they know you'll come to them for the machine work and block prep. The amount of boost you throw at it will be determined by your availability of high grade octane. I'd think 8-10psi will be plenty for a fun little motor but if you can squeeze more out, all the power to ya. Intercooling and getting rid of that compressed air heat will be your saving grace, allowing you to run more boost on the same octane grade. I'd personally find flat top LS2 pistons with valve reliefs 0.030" over and then bolt on a nice set of heads to increase the combustion chamber size, anywhere around a static 8.7-9:1. On 10psi of boost you'll probably see in excess of 500hp, 550lb-ft of torque at the wheels. Wheels, not flywheel. Even though you can get more on the stock crank, I still wouldn't simply because it is cast iron and mother nature is a bitch. Metal fatigue sucks with cast.
We're not all millionaires and if you are, share the love.
I'd vote to just use what you already have, saves on $$$.
That's how he makes money. He's a good salesman with a great sales floor of advertising potential, and it seems he worked his magic on you. An all iron LQ9 block with aluminum heads is a very capable platform for power, especially boosted. $3000+ for an LSx (not LSX) block and rotating assembly could be a GREAT start on a forced induction setup, preferably turbo. If anything, just take your block and crank to a machine shop to have the block cleaned (usually sonic cleaning), magnafluxed, align honed, decks checked, bored 0.030" over with plates, cam bearings installed, threads chased and flushed and cleaned again. The crank should be checked for straightness, magnafluxed, journals ground, oil holes chamfered, balanced and then cleaned. Have the same machine shop order you 4130 rods, and because they're new have them checked for straightness, balanced total mass and end-to-end, cleaned and pistons pressed on or fitted for the right 0.030" over bore pistons. Once the pistons and rings are at the shop ready to go then finally have the block honed to fit each specific piston in it's own bore. This would end up being the total build for a 100,000+ mile turbocharged engine, or a 150k+ motor N/A.
Usually machine shops are willing to match any aftermarket store's prices to their own when they know you'll come to them for the machine work and block prep. The amount of boost you throw at it will be determined by your availability of high grade octane. I'd think 8-10psi will be plenty for a fun little motor but if you can squeeze more out, all the power to ya. Intercooling and getting rid of that compressed air heat will be your saving grace, allowing you to run more boost on the same octane grade. I'd personally find flat top LS2 pistons with valve reliefs 0.030" over and then bolt on a nice set of heads to increase the combustion chamber size, anywhere around a static 8.7-9:1. On 10psi of boost you'll probably see in excess of 500hp, 550lb-ft of torque at the wheels. Wheels, not flywheel. Even though you can get more on the stock crank, I still wouldn't simply because it is cast iron and mother nature is a bitch. Metal fatigue sucks with cast.
We're not all millionaires and if you are, share the love.
I'd vote to just use what you already have, saves on $$$.
03-08-2008, 01:45 PM
#4
i just got quoted by the shop out here $2k for LABOR ONLY. bore/hone a 370 to 408, mock setup with deck plates, balance rotating assembly, etc. seems pretty high to me, i think im gonna pass. i know they do good work though, they build drag cars for a living most of which are ls-based. not to say the work isnt worth it, but its a daily driver, not race-only vehicle.
ive decided to stick with a stock bottom end lq9 and do the l92/l76 setup with a cam. i should be able to hit 12's NA with that setup, low 12's with 100 shot.
ive decided to stick with a stock bottom end lq9 and do the l92/l76 setup with a cam. i should be able to hit 12's NA with that setup, low 12's with 100 shot.
03-09-2008, 11:10 AM
#6
I know he was throwing a sales pitch but this is his reasoning for it, my main caps show a little dis coloring in them, not the block but just the caps. He said we can go either way because the line bore sould clean up my caps. I guess the only tempting part of the deal is a brand new LS2 block out the door is $950 and I thought that was a good price, as for as the eagle internals the kit comes with pistons, rods, crank, rings, and bearings for 2099 out the door, and the labor will be bnetween 500-700 depending on all that needs done. He also told me he can work with me on price and payment no mater which way I go, (my father knows him really well). The only reason I am considering it is it will be a complete brand new set up and since it is going in my 92 I can have the wiring harness made to work with what ever motor goes in. I will say the new ls3 block he has will be going in my 02 later on.
03-09-2008, 11:18 AM
#8
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some times a brand new block is not ideal for a high hp build. it has not been heat cycled yet....
Now IMO, it seams like a good deal, if he is local and there is now shipping...
Now IMO, it seams like a good deal, if he is local and there is now shipping...
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