adam8076

Hey guys, im gonna be doin a cam swap in my 2011 rscb 5.3 and I have it mostly planned out and almost certain I have checked every detail just would like others to point out or inform me of any mistakes

Im goin with the following
Custom grind comp cam -speed eng.
Dod/afm delete kit-tsp
Phase limiter kit-tsp
Oil/lubricants-already have
Spring kit-tsp I think
Seals-oriellys auto farts

Also would you change all 16 lifters or just the odd 8 ? Trust me im no gambler so if I should spend more on insurance I will , ive just heard that most newer gen 4s already have ls2/ls7 quality lifters in them
Woukd you change the stock truck dampner?
Would you reuse stock retainers/keepers?

Those of yiu who have done this task please feel free to share tips/tricks or even just your experience doin it .thanks

While I have your attention will I be safe with driving 2 1/2 hrs to have nelsons tune it , I will have a rough tune from black bear . Just asking to be safe
Thanks guys

Camin00

How many miles on your truck

If under a 100,000 you could get by with the stock lifters.... but it is easier to swap the springs with the heads off the truck and then the lifters are right there. Yes you can reuse the all the stock spring parts...... if miles are low can keep valve seals as well

A lot of people just leave the heads on swap the cam spring and lifters maybe get new water pump and timing cover gaskets along with a new balancer bolt If you take the heads off the bolts are trash since they are tq to yield and it would be wise to put new head gaskets on. you could spend a little extra and get .04 cometic head gaskets and bump compression up to 10.3ish to 1 just and idea

It will be fine to drive I would just take it easy

adam8076

Thanks
The truck has 42k give or take a few hundred
As far as the stock lifters= oh guess I heard wrong I just figure since im pulling the heads off any way like u said to make it easier on spring change
Whats the difference in ls7 lifter trays and others?
Thanks for the help

adam8076

Noone else has done this?
This sucks

Camin00

You should be fine with the stock lifters......personaly I feel that lifters and cams are a couple, "they warp/worn/shape/form with the cam" but I think this applies more to old school chevys than this new roller technology.

I have ls2 trays, but I think the ls7 trays are the same, but dont quote me on it
You shouldn't need new trays with 45,000 miles if you were around a 100,000 plus it would be a good idea.

I you decide to use the stock lifters you dont have to remove the heads just get a tool that will hold the lifters up so they dont fall down in the block. I cant think what the tool is called but on ls1 how to they go in great depth on the whole process with picture as well

The lifter trays are supposed to hold them and keep the lifters from falling but it is a gamble.

Camin00

What are your custom cam specs? So I can give you more info how to save a buck or two haha

adam8076

Thanks
Yeah I know a lot more about sbc's so I'm just double checking anything that I think can give me that expensive pain in my rear. Oh and I also thought the afm lifters were a different size(length) and maybe the trays were diff than the rest.
As far as the cam I'm prolly goin with something like 212/218 on 111 or 112 lsa but I haven't asked any of the cam techs yet
I appreciate the help I just figured since these things (lifters) are so cheap for 16. I thought I might as well

adam8076

Also in case , its a rcsb.on 33's leveled with 4:10's cai black bear tune pacesetters no cats slp lm2 and reversed glass pack thru factory tubing

Camin00

You are in the right ball park with your cam choice. With those 33" you need a cam that will provide great low end tq.

As long as the lift is under .570 you can run ls6 blue springs I think they are around $70 from summit

I found ls7 lifters on ws6store for $130 free shipping the seat inside the lifter is .05 taller than stock but they are the stock replacement lifter so 7.4" pushrods will work.

New lifters and springs $200
New trays $30ish

Your timing chain and oil pump are fine.

Make sure if you pull the heads off to do and oil change before you start the truck. No matter how dry you clean the cylinders of water/antifreeze some will still slip by the pistons down into the block. which will lead to water trashing the bearings and seals/the short block. so just do a oil change before you start it drive it 20ish miles than do another oil change just to be safe

Camin00

you can also check out vinci cams that are more designed to work with the stock heads and produce tq

I have the 210/218 .551/.551 on 116lsa but you can pick 114 or 112 as well

I gained 2 mpgs highway with the 116lsa but the cam is a little quiet for my liking but o well I'll take mpgs over sound any day haha