it should work, I'd double check the stroke numbers.

to go with a used crank though, just like everyone has said, use new bearings, check your tolerances, and balance the roatting assy and you'll be in good shape, this is done every day.

 

whats the deal with the reluctor wheel, do i need the 58x? i found that i can get a ls2 crank but i think it has a 58x reluctor wheel, i dont know what the difference is

 

damn, I forgot completely about the reluctor.... GEN III will need a 24x wheel.... GEN IV takes 58x. somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

 

ok so my truck is an 03, so i believe that is still genIII, ok thanks

 

That is correct sir

 

Its probally a 58x wheel and you will either need a converter box for the signal or swap it for a 24x wheel. Would have to call for more details. I am sure you could get a nice used crank with a grind for less the that though... Remember 5.3 and 6.0 use the same exact crank as the 5.7 LS1. A true LS1 crank has a 1 inch hole gundrilled through the center main journals. Is one better then the other??? Who knows for sure. Alot of theory, speculation, and hearsay. Its said that the 5.3L cranks are the easyest to balance when adding forged pistons and rods. Ironicly there usually the cheapest too if you look hard enough. I always see truck cranks listed as LS1 cranks so that they can sell them for more money, so watch out for that trick.

 

4.8 stroke=3.25, 5.3/5.7/6.0/6.2 stroke=3.622, 7.0 stroke=4.0. 24x reluctor is in 97 to 05 for sure in cars, 58x is 06 and current. The trucks may have kept the 24 a little longer, but I can't remember exactly. But the external key to look for is a white crank sensor. That means 58x ring.

 

Thanks for the info SS, I have been thinking about turning my 5.3 into a 5.7 also but then again i could get a eagle stroker crank and make it a 383 also..... If your gonna buy a crank why not stroke it as much as you can...