INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Turbo to NA 6.0

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Old 08-03-2018, 05:30 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by silentbravo
If by HD fans you mean the mechanical fan, then yes they are good as far as CFM they can pull. They do suck a bit of power though, and that is why 05+ truck/tahoe/yukon electric fans are a popular swap. Also frees up a lot of room when you swap to e-fans. Bigger alternator and upgraded wiring is basically required for that, and also tons of info about the swap on this website.

FAST intake doesn't seem like a worthwhile upgrade. Throw on a NNBS/TBSS intake instead for cheap.
I'll check it out. Thanks!
Old 08-03-2018, 06:00 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nsm12690
Well I had TFS heads completely done with Ti valves in my LS6 and spun her to 7200 or so. My tuner wanted more but I wasn't trying to make two passes and blowup.. but this truck won't be driven that hard. So probably staying hollow stem then if people are seeing those numbers on em. Appreciate the feedback!

No problem. You don't have hollow stem by the way, the only OE heads that had them were LS6 zo6 heads and LS3 heads (also LS7, LSA, and LS9 had variations of light or hollow stem valves). And the intake were hollow the exhaust were sodium filled.

I didn't read all of the fan conversation but the later model fan conversion is the way to go. The way I did it is the best way in my opinion. You'll need a fan setup from a 2005+ truck, the radiator from one or from a 2500 (they are 3" wider) the holes to bolt the fans and radiator are already in your core support so it bolts right up.

I got a front end wiring harness from a 05-07 truck and pulled all the head lights and turn signal wiring off leaving only the OEM wiring setup and relay pack for the fans. The fan relay/fuse box snaps on to the side of your existing fuse box once you pull the cover off. Your ground wire hooks to the existing ground under the radiator on the frame, the power wire connects to the big power wire feeding your existing fuse box. Then you pin two pins in your computer and a tuner downloads a fan file from a newer truck and your PCM will control the fans and it's all a factory setup.

Get a 145 amp alternator from a truck, I have gotten several from the junkyard to put in my truck and F body.

I disagree about the FAST intake, there's definitely power there, but it's at a decent cost. The truck intakes do perform well though, but once you do a little head work and a cam the FAST makes more power than if you were on stock heads and cam.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; 08-06-2018 at 10:53 AM.
Old 08-03-2018, 11:37 PM
  #13  
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That really helps a lot. For sure doing that. I made 45 more hp with my ported FAST 102 and TB on my built ls6 vs stock but had a lot of blade issues and reduced engine power unresolved back and forth stuff with them. maybe my error but still. Not in a rush for manifold any time soon. My tuner today told me he thinks I should just pull the motor and over time just piece together a 408 LQ. Which the more I think about it, I probably should just be smart and patient. Rushing just to feel some power will eventually will throw rods at my face lol.. As for the head I will probably go big and get titanium valves and retainers lol so expensive but I just want this to be the healthiest running crew cab around here. Nobody really builds these LQs right and they're so underrated for boost, shoot, even nitrous.. Everyone wants to budget build and you eat it over and over in the long run. Once I start pulling and piecing, I will post build threads and pics on her. I think now that I am moving my plans again towards a 408, I will build it for a D1 or Whipple. I jumped the gun and bought 1 7/8 primaries and exhaust so turbo for me is out the door. Kind of tired of nitrous so.... yeah as my bipolar self changes over and over hopefully I can have this thing running by next summer.
Old 08-04-2018, 11:18 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by nsm12690
Unsure what a barbell is?
It's a cheap plastic part that causes a ton of heartache when the machine shop removes it for hot tanking the block and it's not replaced. It's easy to over look and when that happens you'll have low or zero oil pressure issues. The transmission has to be dropped and the rear cover has to be removed to install.



Old 08-04-2018, 11:34 AM
  #15  
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Wow, I never knew that. Great info man.
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