Turbo to NA 6.0
08-03-2018, 12:44 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Turbo to NA 6.0
Hey guys,
Getting ready to start this tear down on this truck. I was about to turbo the truck with heads and turbo cam but I just broke the bank with getting the whole frame blasted and coated on top of rebuilding my front end as well as shocks, shackles and leaf springs. So, in order to keep the Mrs. happy, I decided to just do heads cam bolt ons for now. Did a lot of research. Going to post my parts list, if anything is wrong or needs to be added correct me. I'm just a standard do it in my garage guy. Not a mechanic.
Stock LQ4 6.0 98k miles from a 2500HD
What I have is:
Truck already has full exhaust and Long tubes with CAI
Mill, clean up and port the 317s, unless getting 243s is better. I got mixed answers from reading online
New valves, valve seals, retainers and guides
LS9 head gaskets
ARP head studs/bolts
Custom cam from a local shop that helped tune a few of my cars
Cam bearings since it's old
Dual valve springs from Lunati
Hardened pushrods
New lifters with trays
Already have a Ported melling oil pump
Rockers with trunion kit
C5R timing chain
New front cover gasket
What size injectors?
Stock fuel pump Good?
New plugs unsure which ngks im going with yet
While it's apart I'm changing the coil packs and wires (not msd)
Catch can
Stock manifold until I can get a Fast.have had some issues with the Fast 102mm intake and TB in the past so probable going ported 92 or new msd.. but that's later.
Do I need better fans? or are the HD fans good?
Bigger alternator
Is the map sensor and IAT good enough?
transmission cooling fans and cooler
eventually will get the 4l80e built but hoping it holds for at least a year.
Same with heads, I will eventually get a good set of TFS or AFRs. Just want to play with what I have for now.
That's where I am at right now. Tearing the heads off hopefully this weekend. Anyone that's built these LQs I will take any input. Even if you built the bottom end because eventually it will need to happen. End goal is to daily this thing and be able to drive it to the track and Have a built LQ4. Wish I could have did the turbo build but I have decided to just go N/A. And jump back into a car later when I'm ready..
Getting ready to start this tear down on this truck. I was about to turbo the truck with heads and turbo cam but I just broke the bank with getting the whole frame blasted and coated on top of rebuilding my front end as well as shocks, shackles and leaf springs. So, in order to keep the Mrs. happy, I decided to just do heads cam bolt ons for now. Did a lot of research. Going to post my parts list, if anything is wrong or needs to be added correct me. I'm just a standard do it in my garage guy. Not a mechanic.
Stock LQ4 6.0 98k miles from a 2500HD
What I have is:
Truck already has full exhaust and Long tubes with CAI
Mill, clean up and port the 317s, unless getting 243s is better. I got mixed answers from reading online
New valves, valve seals, retainers and guides
LS9 head gaskets
ARP head studs/bolts
Custom cam from a local shop that helped tune a few of my cars
Cam bearings since it's old
Dual valve springs from Lunati
Hardened pushrods
New lifters with trays
Already have a Ported melling oil pump
Rockers with trunion kit
C5R timing chain
New front cover gasket
What size injectors?
Stock fuel pump Good?
New plugs unsure which ngks im going with yet
While it's apart I'm changing the coil packs and wires (not msd)
Catch can
Stock manifold until I can get a Fast.have had some issues with the Fast 102mm intake and TB in the past so probable going ported 92 or new msd.. but that's later.
Do I need better fans? or are the HD fans good?
Bigger alternator
Is the map sensor and IAT good enough?
transmission cooling fans and cooler
eventually will get the 4l80e built but hoping it holds for at least a year.
Same with heads, I will eventually get a good set of TFS or AFRs. Just want to play with what I have for now.
That's where I am at right now. Tearing the heads off hopefully this weekend. Anyone that's built these LQs I will take any input. Even if you built the bottom end because eventually it will need to happen. End goal is to daily this thing and be able to drive it to the track and Have a built LQ4. Wish I could have did the turbo build but I have decided to just go N/A. And jump back into a car later when I'm ready..
Last edited by nsm12690; 08-03-2018 at 01:06 PM.
08-03-2018, 02:08 PM
#2
100% Redneck
Pretty well comprised list..
Truck 8.1 Injectors are popular as they are drop in fit.
I went with Delphi 12613412 50lb/hr Flex fuel injectors for my LQ9. They are from 2010+ trucks (needs adapter plugs)
I would add a new cam thrust plate ($15) to the list. The gasket on the old plate gets flat and dumps oil pressure from the lifter oil galleys.
NGK Iridium TR5IX or TR55 (.60 gap) or TR5 (.40 gap) The latter two plugs are exactly the same, choose the one with the closer gap you need.
New balancer/crankshaft bolt
New barbell
Truck 8.1 Injectors are popular as they are drop in fit.
I went with Delphi 12613412 50lb/hr Flex fuel injectors for my LQ9. They are from 2010+ trucks (needs adapter plugs)
I would add a new cam thrust plate ($15) to the list. The gasket on the old plate gets flat and dumps oil pressure from the lifter oil galleys.
NGK Iridium TR5IX or TR55 (.60 gap) or TR5 (.40 gap) The latter two plugs are exactly the same, choose the one with the closer gap you need.
New balancer/crankshaft bolt
New barbell
08-03-2018, 02:53 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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Thanks. How much power can the 8.1 injectors hold? This cam may be set up for boost later.. I'm a one and done kind of guy. Rather get the right injector now for small boost later. As long as it's not to much injector. Can't believe I forgot underdrive pulley or balancer and yeah I have a new crank bolt laying around here somewhere. Unsure what a barbell is? I'll look it up. Also still undecided on if me getting these 317s redone and machined is worth it it just buying some new ones for 2-3k is worth it after all the work and new parts put into the old 317s? I know 243s ported I can bump compression. I've had some nasty head cam set ups in the past with tfs. Once that man touches my heads I felt blessed lol. But yeah I'm adding new fuel lines and steam line kit too before I build the B.E. trying to also find a good flow chart of these stock truck manifolds. Probably going to get new runners and gaskets as well. Like I said FAST manifold and TB later.
Last edited by nsm12690; 08-03-2018 at 03:19 PM.
08-03-2018, 03:34 PM
#4
I'll also add my .02.
1. Start looking for 799 heads. They are the same as 243s.
2. The LS9 head gasket and 317 combustion chamber will drop the compression to an undesirable level. I would opt for a 4.02 LS2 gasket unless you think you may boost it later again.
1. Start looking for 799 heads. They are the same as 243s.
2. The LS9 head gasket and 317 combustion chamber will drop the compression to an undesirable level. I would opt for a 4.02 LS2 gasket unless you think you may boost it later again.
08-03-2018, 03:49 PM
#5
Staging Lane
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Yeah, I just read a very convincing thread about compression and the 243s. Sucks because I had ls6 heads off of my c5z. For sure getting 243s with better valve job and springs. Gotta figure out what springs to use now.. will the ls9 gasket be fine with the 243/799 heads?
08-03-2018, 04:20 PM
#6
Yeah, I just read a very convincing thread about compression and the 243s. Sucks because I had ls6 heads off of my c5z. For sure getting 243s with better valve job and springs. Gotta figure out what springs to use now.. will the ls9 gasket be fine with the 243/799 heads?
As for the heads, I would have them milled down to 65 or so CC and have a bowl blend and valve job done on them, a BIG part of the power from head work comes from the bowl blend and valve job. You could likely get out fairly cheap and then never touch the heads again as they will flow plenty once boosted. Better heads are always better, but the hp you get for the $$$ starts to diminish at a certain point too.
08-03-2018, 04:29 PM
#7
Staging Lane
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So should I even bother getting the 243s and get them machined with new valves or should I just say F it and get some TFS head with good valves? What valves are these guys using for boost?
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08-03-2018, 05:12 PM
#8
If you decide to go ahead and get heads, the TFS as cast 220's make some serious power right out of the box and are actually less expensive than most other heads.
Most people just use whatever valve, if they are using OEM heads they just use the original valves, you don't need anything special unless you want to turn real high rpms, then you should look at hollow stem. Lots of people making north of 1k with basic valves and no issues.
08-03-2018, 05:14 PM
#9
If by HD fans you mean the mechanical fan, then yes they are good as far as CFM they can pull. They do suck a bit of power though, and that is why 05+ truck/tahoe/yukon electric fans are a popular swap. Also frees up a lot of room when you swap to e-fans. Bigger alternator and upgraded wiring is basically required for that, and also tons of info about the swap on this website.
FAST intake doesn't seem like a worthwhile upgrade. Throw on a NNBS/TBSS intake instead for cheap.
FAST intake doesn't seem like a worthwhile upgrade. Throw on a NNBS/TBSS intake instead for cheap.
08-03-2018, 05:28 PM
#10
Staging Lane
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From what I understand the 317's and 243's are essentially the same outside of the chamber size. So a milled 317 is basically a 243.
If you decide to go ahead and get heads, the TFS as cast 220's make some serious power right out of the box and are actually less expensive than most other heads.
Most people just use whatever valve, if they are using OEM heads they just use the original valves, you don't need anything special unless you want to turn real high rpms, then you should look at hollow stem. Lots of people making north of 1k with basic valves and no issues.
If you decide to go ahead and get heads, the TFS as cast 220's make some serious power right out of the box and are actually less expensive than most other heads.
Most people just use whatever valve, if they are using OEM heads they just use the original valves, you don't need anything special unless you want to turn real high rpms, then you should look at hollow stem. Lots of people making north of 1k with basic valves and no issues.