I will be changing my cam in the week or so. I want to make sure that I have everythng needed to. I have read through some of the post on here and the tech article http://www.ls1howto.com

Here is what I have so far;
Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam 207/220 .571/.578 and 118.5lsa
LS6 yellow springs

Here is what I still need;
- Gasket kit from http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721...3-LS1_LS6-.htm
- Longer crank bolt - M16 x 2.0 pitch x 120mm long
- Wooden dowels - 1/4, 5/16, & 3/8
- 16 pen magnets - extra insurance for dowels
- Valve spring compressor
- 3 armed pulluy puller
- 2-3 spare locks (GMPN 10166345)
- 3-4 spare retainer locks
- 2 AIR tube gaskets (2x GMPN 12553617)


Here are my questions;
1) Do I need shorter pushrods?
2) Will the LS6 springs be sufficient for my cam (Lingenfelter sold them with the cam as a kit)
3) Are the stock retainers sufficient?
4) The Air tube gaskets the same for the f-body's and trucks?
5) What type of spring compressor has worked the best for you? Is it rentable from an autoparts store?


I think that is it. Anything else I should know about?? Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I have everything and that things go smoothly. Thanks!!!!

 

You might want to step up to a better pushrod, same length unless you going to a set of full roller rockers. As for the valve spring you should be ok since the cam you are getting is almost identical to the LS6 camshaft (204/218, 0.551/0.541, 117.5). The stock retainers will do for the LS6 valve springs. When I changed out my valve springs I used the Crane Cam valve spring compressor it works very well, and I highly recommended it since you can do 2 springs at once. You might want to change out the valve seals since you will be there. I am not for sure about the air tube gasket.

Once last thing you might need to consider is, will your stock heads handle that much lift. I think they can handle a max of .550 but not for sure.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Thats a pretty big cam.

 

You don't need the dowel rods AND the magnets, only one or the other. You can use the longer bolt to push the crank pulley on. As soon as you feel it start to bottom out STOP and switch to the NEW crank pulley bolt you already purchased, right? If your not switching to an ASP pulley instead of the OEM at this time your making a mistake. It's well worth the $200 it costs. You may want to drill the heads of the cam sprocket retainer bolts for safety wire. This is one step I wish I had done on the cam installs I've done. It doesn't take that long to drill the holes, but the added safety you get from this extra step is well worth it. Be SURE to install a NEW timing cover seal and follow the GM procedure for aligning the cover. The seal ID must be concentric with the crank. You can do this using the crank pulley to get it concentric, but the cover bolts can only be finger tight when you do this step.

 

Anyone/Anything else?

 

Good choice Im interested to hear how it works with your setup.

I assume youve got assembly lube.

 

if i were you i would look into pushrods (especially if you are FI) just to be safe and look into some comp 918 springs to insure you of zero valve float. The ls6 springs can handle up to .570 of lift.. Prolly will be ok but im picky and i would sell those springs and get some 918s (sometimes debated between .550 and .570.) What are you planning on shifting at?

 

You need a big breaker bar, I used the neck of an old razor scooter I found, fit right over the ratchet handle. Rubber mallet to knock the last bit of pulley off......and you don't need a longer pulley bolt- When it comes time to reinstall the crank pully, heat it in the oven, grab ur welding gloves and then stick it on the crank. It will slide most of the way on.
ummm also some 3 to 5 inch pieces of 1/2 metal dowel to wedge in the flyweel access port in the trans, this keep the engine from turning over so you can torque the crank bolt down.
And water pump gaskets, mine where shot, yours will be too since you have an 01 also, they have an improved version now

 

Probably shifting around 6300 rpm Redline probably set for 6500. Im going to look into the comp 918's and some pushrods, it is probably better to be safe than sorry. I just dont want to deal with the sewing machine sound under my hood.