Sleeving a 5.3
#1
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Sleeving a 5.3
Is it possible? Thought id ask since when you bore the 5.3's out to 5.7 specs most don't have thick, or safe enough walls. And how much could you go if you did sleeve it? Just a curiosity question
#2
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Sleeving is an expensive propisition to just get to roughly a 4 inchy bore. A used 6.0 complete can be had for about $1500 "normally", and that is everything you need to make it run.
So why waste $600 or so to just get a motor to get to that level when it also has a tendency to weaken the block slightly. Also you can get a 6.2 block quite cheap I heard about $900, and that has a 4.030 inch bore.
So why waste $600 or so to just get a motor to get to that level when it also has a tendency to weaken the block slightly. Also you can get a 6.2 block quite cheap I heard about $900, and that has a 4.030 inch bore.
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Sleeving is an expensive propisition to just get to roughly a 4 inchy bore. A used 6.0 complete can be had for about $1500 "normally", and that is everything you need to make it run.
So why waste $600 or so to just get a motor to get to that level when it also has a tendency to weaken the block slightly. Also you can get a 6.2 block quite cheap I heard about $900, and that has a 4.030 inch bore.
So why waste $600 or so to just get a motor to get to that level when it also has a tendency to weaken the block slightly. Also you can get a 6.2 block quite cheap I heard about $900, and that has a 4.030 inch bore.
#4
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if you are just boring it to ls1 piston size (3.898 or 3.905) then you should be fine without having to put sleeves in. I have read in multiple threads and websites that the 5.3/4.8 block were designed to be able to bore to 5.7 size safely so you basically have an iron block ls1.
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Yea if i do that then i plan on running a 2 stage progressive n20 shot on it, thats why i was curious to the strength. 150 outta the hole and another 150 at the 1/8. Or something of that nature
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