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Rear Main leak Help!!!

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Old 12-07-2009, 11:59 PM
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It's pressed in just like a freeze plug. The proper name would be a Welch Plug. Different people have their own ways of installing Welch Plugs; mine is coating the edge with Locktite before driving it in place. Make sure when you drive it in place to not drive it in the center of the plug, as it will tend to cup the plug making it loose in the bore. Use a driver or a socket that fits reasonably close to the inside edge of the plug to keep distortion to a minimum. Just don't use something that fit's too tight, because when you drive the plug in it will crimp down on the tool and you will have to fight it loose, which could possibly loosen the plug back up.

I hope you find your problem!
Old 12-10-2009, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Bear
A few things come to mind and will just have to be verified:
1st - anytime a block is align bored, the crankshaft very slightly moves up in the block and the rear seal/cover will need more care in aligning the seal to the crank and not just down to the pan rail.

2nd - If you possibly picked up (p/n 1261566) with housing and seal installed, it could have came with the seal installed backwards. Careful inspection will show that the seal lip is facing outward. Disregard the printed “this side out” on the side of the seal. The lip should be on the inside, or on the reluctor side of the crankshaft. The aftermarket followed the same prints when they developed a replacement. National Seal p/n 100085 and Victor p/n JV1657 are installed in the housing the same way. You need to turn the seal around before installation if you find this is the case.

3rd - Some of the Eagle cranks in the past have had issues with the rear core plug of the crank coming loose and leaking, causing what people think are rear main leaks. You said you have had this issue for awhile, so you may really want to look into this, unless you just know for a fact that it is a leaking seal.
This is very interesting because I have not heard any of my GM friends talk about turning the rear main seal around. I hate the new design. I loved the old design. Even though it took more finesse to put the old one on, they never leaked with boosted cars because of the backwards design. Now since the new one, its crap. There are markings that say this side out, but I never bothered to try running it backwards. I will look at a seal later today and see if we can. Thanks.

And on the eagle cranks, yes, they are lazy when it comes to good quality so check that back plug on the crank to make sure. Stop using them long time ago.

Rick
Old 12-10-2009, 11:09 AM
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Having to install the seal backwards concerns me...I'm planning on replacing the rear main seal in my LQ9 when I put it together and want to make sure that I get it right. If the engine hadn't been sitting for the past 5 years I'd just leave it alone....unless I find out that these newer seals don't dry out as quickly as the old ones, then I will leave it alone and just run with it. From inspection of the seal I can tell that it wasn't leaking when the engine was removed...
Old 12-10-2009, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk179
This is very interesting because I have not heard any of my GM friends talk about turning the rear main seal around. I hate the new design. I loved the old design. Even though it took more finesse to put the old one on, they never leaked with boosted cars because of the backwards design. Now since the new one, its crap. There are markings that say this side out, but I never bothered to try running it backwards. I will look at a seal later today and see if we can. Thanks.

And on the eagle cranks, yes, they are lazy when it comes to good quality so check that back plug on the crank to make sure. Stop using them long time ago.

Rick
I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has come across these things and feel the way I do.
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