thebrain

Ray the burn down of tires may not have been 3-4 minutes but rather 2-21/2. probably result in same damage it was'nt completely redlining was getting into redline but not constant because I backed down a tad on throttle.only the rears where spinning.

Ray a broken valve spring even just one would that contribute to no initial oil preasure?or besides the oil pump itself (unlikely) could it be the only cause?

madman when you say "Do a compression test. You’ll find your issue. I’d be willing to bet that you have at least 1 busted ring land."would a busted ringland be a piston ring I'm assumming a reduction of compression has several negative effects 1.reduce power I have felt a reduction of takeoff power 2.also reduces oil presurerizing the oil pan am I understanding correctly?
so in fact a ring has reduced OP is still unknown.
I've looked where I thought was my crane valve spring compressor was stored can't find last time used was around 2004.dam that's 17 years.was thinking of the knock off on ebay for $15. anyone here use it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37346853363...3f52%7Ciid%3A1

how good is the single spring tool? this Guy went up $2. since yesterday https://www.ebay.com/itm/173910889438

still confussed w/ the ebay engines one seller says 2005-06
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294151712170
next says 2005-07 are the same engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/233940792034

I know what Option L33 it's the aluminum block correct?

don't know what this means Vin B 8th Digit

I'm thinking the 05 or 06 won't work w/ a 07 I think is the 58 tooth relucter wheel on the crank.

these used engines won't display there actuel milage my current dashs odometer won't change correct?

I read freight co's that deliver engines have a curbside drop off clause dam. don't these delivery trucks usaley have frieght liftgates where driver can drop off anywhere on driveway
like right next to broken vehicle.

ideally slapping in a valve spring would be great mite just be wishfull thinking.

thanks for advice.

thebrain

can't find the large socket
what is the exact size of socket 24mm x deep well x 12point or 6 point sorry I don't know what hex head is.
a bolt usalley has 5 sides I did have larger sockects w/ 12 point wasn't sure if there was a reason why there wheren't 6 point.

since the jack stand scandle I avoid harbor frieght maybe there impact sockects are safe?

are you using compressed air to hold up the valves from dropping into cylinder when the keepers are removed?
I don't have air compressor. can I rotate crank where each cylinders piston is at top of stroke?
thanks

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

OEM bolt is 6-point.

I’ve used HF impact sockets for years.

thebrain

OK it's a 6 point. that's deep well right since the bolts head is deep w/in the harmonic balancer and since I'm using a 1/2" breaker w/3' long cheater pipe should the socket still be an black impact style even though I'm not useing a 400LB air impact..

also can a 400LB air powered impact break the crank bolt w/out locking the flywheel?
thanks

I couldn't find the crane spring compressor so I ordered the chine knockoff for $17. shipped dam I gave over $120. back when they first came out dam. if the tool works/stays unbroken I don't care where it's made.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

I have an impact gun rated higher than that and it wouldn't break the crank bolt loose. I had to lock the flywheel and use a 3' cheater on my breaker bar.
You need air to hold the valves up. Use a compression tester hose with the shrader removed or leak down tester hose. You have to make sure that cylinder is at TDC.

thebrain

I believe I can remove a valve spring w/out compressed air holding up the valve. if the cylinders piston is top dead won't the piston holdup the valves preventing them from falling into cylinder.
it's been over 17years since I messed w/ valves springs, I think that if cylinder1 is TD then it an another cylinders piston is TD then both can be swapped, diffinetly don't want to drop parts down in the engine.

also are 5.3 springs the same as LS1 oem springs?can the auto store like advance test the spring pressure. thanks

darkirish63

iTrader: (5)

Correct. I used the compressor to hold up the valve when swapping out the springs. Anywhere you can rent one from? It doesn't need to be a high end unit. I used my pancake compressor I use for my nail/brad gun.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

The valves won't stay up enough to remove and replace the keepers. If you are so against using compressed air, what magic is going to turn the impact gun that you speak of to remove the crank bolt? No, you have to measure the installed height, remove the springs, and take them to a machine shop that does cylinder heads.

thebrain

when I did the cam upgrade on the TAs LS1 (bare w/ me this was 17 years ago so I don't remember every detail) I removed the timing cover then I spun the cam quickly to shove the lifters up.
then slide wooden doles into block to prevent the lifters from falling into cylinder.

recalling at this time I thought that I had the cover back on then proceed to swap valve springs.
I could be misremembering and swapped springs while the doles where still in block.

I'll have to go back to my notebook and confirm the time cover was on, but I think it was on because I remember that first night out camed just heat cycling not racing. I didn't have air then.
I could've sworn the time cover was on & cylinder 1TDC swapped all odd springs & titghtened rockers 22LBs rotated crank 2TDC swapped evens .

I'm not apposed to compressed air just don't have storage to keep big tools that I'll rarely use. tool rental time.

after looking at image are you Guys saying even if piston is TDC the valve stem isn't long enough even w spring completely squished down to get keeper back in?

as far as the impact I've been able to break flywheels off lawn mowers & large out board boat engines w/ just an electric impact.
the Saab is AWD I can't even see a starter above exhaust drive shaft front wheel diff. there's alot of stuff.
now if a impact could break the crank bolt w/out locking the flywheel then that would make the job easier.

how much stuff/parts to remove to get starter out to lock flywheel?sorry to come across as total newb I'm kindof relearning procedures.

piston holding up valve valve drops into cylinder.

thebrain

I don’t really know what to think, like am I wasting time/effort on messing w/ valve springs.

When I think about it there are actuelly 3 different noise’s anyone notice what caused these noises.I thought that each car part makes a distinguishing noise weather it's broke or unbroken



One said it’s “fucked” (probably is).next was I think broken piston ring.I’m hopping fast brick was right on a broken spring.the none oiling issue is probally the cause of all noises.I really don’t see a broken spring causeing no oiling though push rods.

worst case sceneo broken ring since she still runs can this cylinder be homed or will a ring damage require boreing whole block?are all short blocks bored .30 over making the engine ci larger?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33276590757....c101195.m1851



I think the smart thing is to start w/ compression of each cylinder. How much for each cylinder and % allowed over or under?

If she fails due to broken ring I’ll be looking for a short block w/ these orginal 799heads.



If she has desirable/acceptable compression then get compressor procede w/ springs.

is a compression test also referred to as a leak down test or are they differnt.sorry again for being a newb but thats why I'm here to learn how to fix stuff.

Thanks for advicing



https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...sor/1000595167