My truck suddenly started running roughly today
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
I even kept driving it, to diagnose the miss. It took awhile before it started to make any noise. It's the #1 exhaust valve, by far the easiest to get to on my setup. I am so lucky.
#3
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
I'm going to find just the one to put in to make sure everything else is OK. And a seal, too. That's what is blue to the right of the spring. Then I hope to get through the summer and replace all 16.
These are what came in the heads from AFR. I don't know if you call them double springs, or singles with a damper. With 120 lb. seat pressure and 420 lb. open pressure, I'm sure there are a lot to choose from.
These are what came in the heads from AFR. I don't know if you call them double springs, or singles with a damper. With 120 lb. seat pressure and 420 lb. open pressure, I'm sure there are a lot to choose from.
#4
That exhaust valve getten pretty hot here lately?
What kind of total ignition timing you workin with?Ima guess pretty late 8-12 degrees.
You got lucky the valve didnt take a plunge into the cylinder.Springs maybe showing some fatigue from heat and a good amount of harmonics travelin throughem.
What kind of total ignition timing you workin with?Ima guess pretty late 8-12 degrees.
You got lucky the valve didnt take a plunge into the cylinder.Springs maybe showing some fatigue from heat and a good amount of harmonics travelin throughem.
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
Some of the springs got rusty before I installed the heads, I should have thrown them away right away. Or I should have changed them yesterday. 
I didn't even consider that all that noise that finally came might have been the valve hitting the piston. Now I have something else to worry about, thanks.
I didn't even consider that all that noise that finally came might have been the valve hitting the piston. Now I have something else to worry about, thanks.
#7
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
I used a leak down tester, it's hunky-dory. I guess I am lucky, but it would be nice if an indicator popped up in the message center that said "CHANGE VALVE SPRINGS".
Check out how the spring seat's (cup?) walls disintegrated, and the shim that was underneath the seat became cupped.
Check out how the spring seat's (cup?) walls disintegrated, and the shim that was underneath the seat became cupped.
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#10
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,520
Likes: 244
From: Suburban Chicago
I've been wrenching between downpours. Yay! I probably have to pull the head. Yay!

The valve seal is loose on the guide. I don't understand why I had to pry what was left of the old seal off of the guide, and it is like the new one won't go down far enough to seat, or the guide was somehow damaged by the spring pieces. It's as if the tip of the guide has been distorted and raised, which is keeping the seal from seating. I'm not sure. I can't find different seals, could there be longer seals? They don't look any different on AFR's website.
Picture is AFR #6612 seals.

The valve seal is loose on the guide. I don't understand why I had to pry what was left of the old seal off of the guide, and it is like the new one won't go down far enough to seat, or the guide was somehow damaged by the spring pieces. It's as if the tip of the guide has been distorted and raised, which is keeping the seal from seating. I'm not sure. I can't find different seals, could there be longer seals? They don't look any different on AFR's website.
Picture is AFR #6612 seals.






