Head works
#1
Taking my heads to the machine shop today. They are factory 706s.
Long story short truck started overheating quickly on short drives, got worried I had a cracked head, decided to beef the whole thing up.
On tear-down my heads "appear" ok but i had #7 leaking coolant into the cyl from the top rear coolant passage. had cheap aftermarket head gaskets as it was a Jasper reman engine.
Ive got ARP rod and head bolts, planning on gapping the stock rings up to .032" possibly tr220 or a lunati 220/224 both 112lsa 551-581 lift
Pacesetter LTs and a stock intake/TB w/ AEM bruteforce CAI.
That being said I had planned on milling .020-25" off the heads, and bumping up to a 2.00 int valve then doing some minor port polishing to get up in 243 range... I guess my real question is would I see any real advantages of maybe a little bigger exh valve or maybe even bigger int valves???
The Truck isnt a MUST DD as I ride my streetbike pretty much ever day I can but it's got to be able to putter around town if I do feel the need.
Long story short truck started overheating quickly on short drives, got worried I had a cracked head, decided to beef the whole thing up.
On tear-down my heads "appear" ok but i had #7 leaking coolant into the cyl from the top rear coolant passage. had cheap aftermarket head gaskets as it was a Jasper reman engine.
Ive got ARP rod and head bolts, planning on gapping the stock rings up to .032" possibly tr220 or a lunati 220/224 both 112lsa 551-581 lift
Pacesetter LTs and a stock intake/TB w/ AEM bruteforce CAI.
That being said I had planned on milling .020-25" off the heads, and bumping up to a 2.00 int valve then doing some minor port polishing to get up in 243 range... I guess my real question is would I see any real advantages of maybe a little bigger exh valve or maybe even bigger int valves???
The Truck isnt a MUST DD as I ride my streetbike pretty much ever day I can but it's got to be able to putter around town if I do feel the need.
#2
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Are you keeping the stock 5.3 bore? If so, I would keep the stock valve sizes. You dont really get an advantage of big valves unless you have a big(er) bore.
Also, that top ring gap sure is big, even for a big nitrous shot or FI. It will work but you will have a lot of blow by and oil consumption, but I would go with something like 0.025"
Also, that top ring gap sure is big, even for a big nitrous shot or FI. It will work but you will have a lot of blow by and oil consumption, but I would go with something like 0.025"
#3
Yeh i remembered wrong on the on top ring. i do plan on putting a 200 shot (or bigger lol) on it after i get all the other bugs worked out. rings will go .025 on top.
Back to my heads. After i find the little machine shop i had been talking to for a couple days now, they decide that they cant do the valves becuase they arent sure if the new seat will stay......
turns out after i got home and looked at them again (trying to decide what i was gonna do) i noticed the Castech logo on one of the heads....
Knowing these are the heads that like o crack.. and it was on he side that was leaking im having hard time convincing myself to spend any money on it....
Anyone need to get rid of a set of stock 243s W/o springs????
Thanks.
Back to my heads. After i find the little machine shop i had been talking to for a couple days now, they decide that they cant do the valves becuase they arent sure if the new seat will stay......
turns out after i got home and looked at them again (trying to decide what i was gonna do) i noticed the Castech logo on one of the heads....

Knowing these are the heads that like o crack.. and it was on he side that was leaking im having hard time convincing myself to spend any money on it....
Anyone need to get rid of a set of stock 243s W/o springs????
Thanks.
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