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Engine swap checklist

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 12:41 PM
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Default Engine swap checklist

Swapping out my 5.3 for a 6.0. LQ4. Pullout from an 03 , 2500 with 9K miles. Will pull the cam, springs, pushrods, supercharger from the 5.3 and put on the 6.0.

Parts list as I see it. Am I missing anything.

Cheap dino oil and filter for startup then Mobil synthetic and filter.
Coolant.
Gaskets and crank bolt for the cam swap.
Set of Katech rod bolts. Do I need oil pan gasket?
Do I need to replace the supercharger intake gaskets?
Pinning the crank pulley. Pin, drill bit, reamer.
Use the crank, cam and knock sensors in the 6.0? Assuming so.
Up the fueling and pull some timing from the tune to keep me safe until I get to a dyno.
Can I reuse the metal header gaskets that came with Dynatechs?

TIA for any input.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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I was able to reuse the oil pan gasket. The radix gaskets were replaced on mine but only because I didn't want to chance it. Most likely they can be reused. What about an oil pump? Are you gonna reuse the one from the 5.3 or 6.0? You should also be able to reuse the header gaskets. If the engine was in good running order before you got it, I don't see why you couldn't use all the sensors. I had to swap the cam sensor from my 5.3 to the 6L because it was bad and threw a code after start up. Other than that, I think you have all the stuff you need. The tune I have no idea about. You already running an in line fuel pump?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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Also, leave that 3.2" pulley on there. You'll be very surprised what 6-7psi on a 6L feels like
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
What about an oil pump? Are you gonna reuse the one from the 5.3 or 6.0?

You already running an in line fuel pump?

Also, leave that 3.2" pulley on there. You'll be very surprised what 6-7psi on a 6L feels like
Going with the 6.0 oil pump. Unless I get into it and see something ugly. A blueprinted unit would be nice but un-necessary I think. I'm also very afraid of installing one. Stories I hear about o-rings not right and getting them aligned correctly.

Yeah in line fuel pump is on.

3.2 or larger is staying on until I get a feel for the tune. Meth injection and good some tuning I think I'll be back to higher boost. Gonna take 480+ RWHP to get this pig into the 12's in street trim.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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You can reuse the pan gasket, just be sure and align the pan properly when you put it back. The metal exh gaskets are reusable also. Not sure what a Radix uses for intake gaskets but if its stock truck stuff thats reusable as well. For sure you need to replace the front cover crank seal (and install it dry-no oil on the surface of the seal or the balancer) and the water pump gaskets.

No need to pull timing if your 5.3 was running good on your current tune. The fueling should be fine as well, just take it a little easy til you see for sure. You will probably hafta raise the idle speed about 100-200 rpm or it will die occasionally like at stoplights.

When I got my first 6 liter (a stock salvage yard motor) I changed nothing else about the combo-just pulled a stock '02 5.3 and put in a stock '01 6.0 and running on the 5.3 tune it picked up at least 40 hp and at least 50 ft lbs at the wheels across the board from 3000rpm to 5800 rpm.

I think you are going to like it.....
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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heres a good writeup that OBXmarine put me on

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Instructions/oilpaninstructions.pdf#search='oil%20pan%20install ation'
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by L-EATER
For sure you need to replace the front cover crank seal (and install it dry-no oil on the surface of the seal or the balancer) and the water pump gaskets.

...running on the 5.3 tune it picked up at least 40 hp and at least 50 ft lbs at the wheels across the board from 3000rpm to 5800 rpm.

I think you are going to like it.....
Ordered the cam swap kit from Thunder Racing. Think it comes with the front cover crank seal. I have one anyway if not, from the last cam install.

Should be able to feel 50 ft lbs of torque I will like it.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kano
heres a good writeup that OBXmarine put me on
Hey thanks for the link. It specifically says to replace the gasket. Hadn't given any thought about the importance to get the back side flush.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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KY I didnt have to replace the gasket there is NO reason to get a new unless the old one is damaged. I dont understand why everyone is so **** about replacing the gaskets on these things. They are damn o-ring type seals you arent going to hurt them. I did a cam swap on my 175K 5.3 and the seals didnt need to be replaced. The oil pump thing with the o-ring you are going to have to pull the pickup tube anyway to get the rod bolts in so you are going to cross that bridge anyway so might as well replace the oil pump if you think you want to. Lining it up and installing it correctly if you arent a moron you can do it. Four damn bolts and torque them to spec and you are done its almost idiot proof.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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have you thought of going with a bigger cam while you are at it??? might be a good idea to do it while its out..
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