Conflicting Info: New motor break in.
#11
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Apparently I was mislead on the camshaft requiring a break in process. Basic idea then of breaking in the new motor is to take it through the responsibilities it will have as a daily driver without hitting WOT for the first couple oil changes. That will ensure varying RPM levels, different loads and since most of my driving is highway, a good portion of the break in will be nice easy driving.
Good to know, thanks fellas.
Good to know, thanks fellas.
Last edited by InchUp; 04-01-2008 at 11:19 PM.
#13
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I think it really comes down to personal preference...
When I worked in the engine department at a Cat dealership, we would build an engine, run it up to temp, check for leaks, and then put a full load to it.... basically no break-in... Some of the engines would hit over 2,000 hp....
When I worked in the engine department at a Cat dealership, we would build an engine, run it up to temp, check for leaks, and then put a full load to it.... basically no break-in... Some of the engines would hit over 2,000 hp....
#14
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More than likely the instructions that comp put in the box are older than you are. Literally. Back in the days when you had flat tapper non-roller lifters this would be true. Nowadays you start it up and can let it idle. Lifters don't need to rotate like they used to, they roll
#15
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Break in procedures are as varied as preferences for oil. Ask a 100 people and you'll get 75 different answers.
The 2000 rpm thing for a few minutes is from the old flat tapped cam days as already brought up. Not needed with roller cams and lifters.
I once read a very good article on the subject. It was in one of the good HP magazines. They took identical engines and ran them through 2 different break ins. Slow and easy and full power. The full power break in made more horsepower. Theory being that the higher cylinder pressures early on did a better job of seating the rings.
Its been a while since I've built a new engine, but here is my procedure based upon the few I have and lots of reading on the subject. Start it. Check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc... Let it get to full operating pressure and go out and flog it as hard as you can and often as you can for the first 200 miles.
The 2000 rpm thing for a few minutes is from the old flat tapped cam days as already brought up. Not needed with roller cams and lifters.
I once read a very good article on the subject. It was in one of the good HP magazines. They took identical engines and ran them through 2 different break ins. Slow and easy and full power. The full power break in made more horsepower. Theory being that the higher cylinder pressures early on did a better job of seating the rings.
Its been a while since I've built a new engine, but here is my procedure based upon the few I have and lots of reading on the subject. Start it. Check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc... Let it get to full operating pressure and go out and flog it as hard as you can and often as you can for the first 200 miles.
#16
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I have always done the following, start it up run it to temp. Check for all leaks etc. Make sure thermostat is opening and fans are controlling temp good. Take for a short drive, nothing crazy just vary loads. Go home and change oil and filter, check all fluid levels again. Allow to cool completely, repeat procedure exept drive slightly longer. Then drive it like you want to, get on it etc. to really build good cyl. pressure to seat everything. If it breaks when doing so it would have broken anyway. Just make sure it is COMPETELY up to temp before beating on it.
#17
Break in procedures are as varied as preferences for oil. Ask a 100 people and you'll get 75 different answers.
The 2000 rpm thing for a few minutes is from the old flat tapped cam days as already brought up. Not needed with roller cams and lifters.
I once read a very good article on the subject. It was in one of the good HP magazines. They took identical engines and ran them through 2 different break ins. Slow and easy and full power. The full power break in made more horsepower. Theory being that the higher cylinder pressures early on did a better job of seating the rings.
Its been a while since I've built a new engine, but here is my procedure based upon the few I have and lots of reading on the subject. Start it. Check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc... Let it get to full operating pressure and go out and flog it as hard as you can and often as you can for the first 200 miles.
The 2000 rpm thing for a few minutes is from the old flat tapped cam days as already brought up. Not needed with roller cams and lifters.
I once read a very good article on the subject. It was in one of the good HP magazines. They took identical engines and ran them through 2 different break ins. Slow and easy and full power. The full power break in made more horsepower. Theory being that the higher cylinder pressures early on did a better job of seating the rings.
Its been a while since I've built a new engine, but here is my procedure based upon the few I have and lots of reading on the subject. Start it. Check for leaks, good oil pressure, etc... Let it get to full operating pressure and go out and flog it as hard as you can and often as you can for the first 200 miles.
and all though it makes better numbers does it last as long???
#18
2000rpm for 20mins i have heard is extra oil psi to help cam break in... I believe in breaking in motors, getting the rings to seat etc. I babied mine for 500miles changed the oil cut the filter open every other oil change to monitor for deposits, and now i drive aggressively.
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I think that's actually what I'll be forced to do, simply because a few days after I've made time to complete my V8 swap I'll be driving 9 hours to the Indianapolis Truck Bash from Minnesota before school starts and all. If anything I'll have the truck a few days running before I leave, so it'll be a nice break in period, then I'll change the oil once I get down there.
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