Cam swap with Heads on??
#1
So I bought a 210/218 on .551/.551 116lsa for my ecsb and want to run the stock lifters seeing as they only have 80K on them and will save me some money.
3 questions
1st I know I can spin the cam a couple of times to keep the lifter up in the trays, but is this reliable? I'm so scared of a lifter falling down.
2nd Do I need a special cam break in lube or just rub it in the 10w 30 oil that I use?
3rd Will I be able to drive it 10-15 miles to the tune shop?
3 questions
1st I know I can spin the cam a couple of times to keep the lifter up in the trays, but is this reliable? I'm so scared of a lifter falling down.
2nd Do I need a special cam break in lube or just rub it in the 10w 30 oil that I use?
3rd Will I be able to drive it 10-15 miles to the tune shop?
#2
I did the same and the lifters stayed up.
No just put it in n run. Thats what i did n still running 40k laters
Yes just cruising, no lead foot unless u want something bad to happen.
No just put it in n run. Thats what i did n still running 40k laters
Yes just cruising, no lead foot unless u want something bad to happen.
#6
The rods work well, I've also done the pen magnet method. I wouldn't trust the lifters to not fall. That would ruin your day.
Regular oil is fine.
It's okay to drive, the fuel trims will keep everything in check. It might be harder to get to idle if its a big enough cam. If you're replacing the valve springs they typically need several heat cycles to break in.
Regular oil is fine.
It's okay to drive, the fuel trims will keep everything in check. It might be harder to get to idle if its a big enough cam. If you're replacing the valve springs they typically need several heat cycles to break in.
#7
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#8
Thanks guys just finished the spring swap and got the headers bolted back up. Notice those head studs
Had the drive side head crack a year or two ago and went ahead and bought a used set of 862 and milled .03. Decided to put $70 Pro-Comp studs in it with new gaskets, and they were a B**** with the motor still in the truck. Notice the the dents on the fire wall?? haha had the transmission jacked up and still couldn't get the back two studs in so I had to relieve some frustration on my fire wall. lol I am never taking these heads off and my next head swap will be on an engine stand....

Had the drive side head crack a year or two ago and went ahead and bought a used set of 862 and milled .03. Decided to put $70 Pro-Comp studs in it with new gaskets, and they were a B**** with the motor still in the truck. Notice the the dents on the fire wall?? haha had the transmission jacked up and still couldn't get the back two studs in so I had to relieve some frustration on my fire wall. lol I am never taking these heads off and my next head swap will be on an engine stand.... 
#10
Thanks guys just finished the spring swap and got the headers bolted back up. Notice those head studs
Had the drive side head crack a year or two ago and went ahead and bought a used set of 862 and milled .03. Decided to put $70 Pro-Comp studs in it with new gaskets, and they were a B**** with the motor still in the truck. Notice the the dents on the fire wall?? haha had the transmission jacked up and still couldn't get the back two studs in so I had to relieve some frustration on my fire wall. lol I am never taking these heads off and my next head swap will be on an engine stand....


Had the drive side head crack a year or two ago and went ahead and bought a used set of 862 and milled .03. Decided to put $70 Pro-Comp studs in it with new gaskets, and they were a B**** with the motor still in the truck. Notice the the dents on the fire wall?? haha had the transmission jacked up and still couldn't get the back two studs in so I had to relieve some frustration on my fire wall. lol I am never taking these heads off and my next head swap will be on an engine stand.... 

but for the record...you should've put the studs in after the heads were on!



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