65 GMC

Thanks b2sdad, sounds great!
1. Do you still have the stock convertor? If not, what do you have?
2. How does it shift?
3. How are the power brakes?
4. How is the performance? Did you loose any low end? Do you feel any difference from a stop?

b2sdad

1. Yes... For now. Looking into getting a 4l60 stage 3 and 2800/3000 stall
2. Shifts fine, I did have the shift points raised which is awesome! but she is showing her age.
3. Ah the brakes... They work but they are not working 100% I had a vacuum booster installed to compensate for the loss of vacuum from the cam install, it helped, but they are STILL not where they should be. Had the truck retuned, helped even more!! Still not 100% at this point my guess would be on a scale of 1-10 they are about an 8.5. Which for now is okay. Now granted I did put 24s on the truck which decrease performance due to weight. I am getting a "service brakes soon" message on the dash which I am assuming is an electric problem of some sort. Im guessing it's the ECBM module, which are known to fail on my generation of SUV.
4. Performance is great! This cam comes alive at 3k rpm and pulls up into the 5500 rpm range. This cam performs everywhere! But I really cant take off like a rocket becasue my Suburban is a big girl, she's heavy. Also as I had previously stated she has a stock trans and converter for now.

65 GMC

Outstanding info sir! Thank you!

b2sdad

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

If you look at the dyno overlays for the low lift TSP cams vs the high lift the high lift makes more power everywhere with no sacrifice. I didn't look to see if you posted any but I've looked at it a few times over on LS1 tech in discussions there.

The basic rule with a 5.3 is stay under 220 degrees and you'll be happy. Guys that go over that complain the the truck feels slower than stock. There's special situations of course where that doesn't happen but that's the general deal.

I would stick between 210-220 on duration and go with 600 lift.

On the stall, do a good one or you may be replacing the trans and converter when the converter takes a ****. It does happen. You can always do a stage one or two truck cam and see how you feel about a converter before doing one. But don't cheap out, if you do it'll cost you a lot more than just buying a good stall on the first go round, plus you'll be a lot happier with the performance. Quick story, I used to bust a friends *** all the time that had a larger stall and more mods, but his converter was a cheapo and not very efficient. We launched about the same if not harder than me, but one we were rolling or if we did a roll I would pull away because my car was putting more power to the ground. His was also lighter than mine and had a cam. Your converter choice makes a big difference all around.

Runnerxs

You could also use cometic . 04 head gaskets. That helps get your dynamic compression close to stock and better quench. Little extra for bottom end torque.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I agree on headgaskets. One thing to consider though is cometics are about $200 if I remember right. WS6store makes .045 gaksets and they sell for $52. I'd rock those.

4.8/5.3 gaskets

RPM Speed HD MLS Head Gaskets 4.8/5.3/5.7 and 862 Heads (Pair | WS6store.com