block prep for 5.3L?
Aug 13, 2014 | 09:03 PM
#21
Copper Spray works well. We used it on blocks that had less than desirable surfaces When I worked in a Shop.
If the deck was really pitted, we would use a product called Indian Head. It's like a glue.
If the deck was really pitted, we would use a product called Indian Head. It's like a glue.
Aug 14, 2014 | 10:34 AM
#23
You can use TTY bolts, But IMO why bother. The ARP's pay for them self in 1 shot unless you have a 99-03 block as the price jump is out outrageous.
Still, if you ever need to service any thing and you have to purchase another set of TTY bolts, Your in the ARP range any way.
Still, if you ever need to service any thing and you have to purchase another set of TTY bolts, Your in the ARP range any way.
Aug 21, 2014 | 12:23 AM
#26
Aug 26, 2014 | 09:41 AM
#27
The Cam Motion cam degreed dead nuts at 111.2 ICL, right on the cam card.
What retainers and locks should I use with PAC1211X single beehive springs?
I've got .0015" skirt to wall clearance on all but #5. It had some pitting in the cylinder so the shop honed it a bit more. I'm measuring .0025"-.00275" on that cylinder. Will that cause slap with the speedpro coated hyper pistons?
I'll try to post some build pics tonight.
What retainers and locks should I use with PAC1211X single beehive springs?
I've got .0015" skirt to wall clearance on all but #5. It had some pitting in the cylinder so the shop honed it a bit more. I'm measuring .0025"-.00275" on that cylinder. Will that cause slap with the speedpro coated hyper pistons?
I'll try to post some build pics tonight.
Aug 26, 2014 | 09:36 PM
#28
The Cam Motion cam degreed dead nuts at 111.2 ICL, right on the cam card.
What retainers and locks should I use with PAC1211X single beehive springs?
I've got .0015" skirt to wall clearance on all but #5. It had some pitting in the cylinder so the shop honed it a bit more. I'm measuring .0025"-.00275" on that cylinder. Will that cause slap with the speedpro coated hyper pistons?
I'll try to post some build pics tonight.
What retainers and locks should I use with PAC1211X single beehive springs?
I've got .0015" skirt to wall clearance on all but #5. It had some pitting in the cylinder so the shop honed it a bit more. I'm measuring .0025"-.00275" on that cylinder. Will that cause slap with the speedpro coated hyper pistons?
I'll try to post some build pics tonight.
Not sure on the piston slap.
Aug 27, 2014 | 01:28 PM
#29
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
Talked to shop yesterday. Block is in great shape, will clean up STD bore with a hone. He'll put together a package with pistons/rings/bearings because he's going to balance it anyway. I also asked him to check big end roundness with ARP rod bolts.
What I'm struggling with is setting the CR. I'd like to run 87 octane with 10:1 compression, a mild cam and stock converter. I've been reading the threads about guys running cheap gas with L33 motors, with mixed results. BB recommends against it on their website.
Should I try to make it live with 10:1 on 87, or set the compression higher and accept that I'll have to use 89-93 octane?
What I'm struggling with is setting the CR. I'd like to run 87 octane with 10:1 compression, a mild cam and stock converter. I've been reading the threads about guys running cheap gas with L33 motors, with mixed results. BB recommends against it on their website.
Should I try to make it live with 10:1 on 87, or set the compression higher and accept that I'll have to use 89-93 octane?
Aug 28, 2014 | 08:23 PM
#30
Something in my gut just didnt like the endplay. I put the dial indicator on the crank and got .0015". I removed the #3 cap, left the other mains tight and got .005"! The bearing also had a shiny spot like it was cocked just a hair. WTF, over?
I sanded the rear thrust face of the lower shell on a piece of glass. I put it back together, tonked the crank back and forth and now I have .0035". The slight tight spot when turning the crank is now gone. Here's a pic of the cam degreeing.
Trust your gut people.
I sanded the rear thrust face of the lower shell on a piece of glass. I put it back together, tonked the crank back and forth and now I have .0035". The slight tight spot when turning the crank is now gone. Here's a pic of the cam degreeing.
Trust your gut people.
