Bearing clearance help Please
#1
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,593
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From: JunkYard
Ok so I started assembling my rebuilt 5.3 clearances. Looked ok so I re-cleaned everything installed the Main bearings then lubed them and the crank ... Crank was polished and Is withen factory spec. I used ACL duraglide Std Bearings. Tourqued everything to spec and turned the crank a revelotion or two between steps to make sure it was good. By the time it was all torued down it stoped spinning...
I take it apart 1 cap at a time to see if I am having an issue at 1 specific cap... No such luck...
#1 bearing looks like it had something under the coating.
It lightly scored the crank. I am gonna see if They will warranty the bearings And try and switch them for something else like Clevites....
I am gonna take the crank down and have it looked at agian
Any one Have any Idea's or possible suggestions???
I take it apart 1 cap at a time to see if I am having an issue at 1 specific cap... No such luck... #1 bearing looks like it had something under the coating.
It lightly scored the crank. I am gonna see if They will warranty the bearings And try and switch them for something else like Clevites....
I am gonna take the crank down and have it looked at agianAny one Have any Idea's or possible suggestions???
Last edited by 1FastBrick; Dec 1, 2008 at 10:53 AM.
#4
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,593
Likes: 900
From: JunkYard
Yes I mic'd The bearing journals on the crank and checked for out of round and taper. also checked the stack up on the bearing thickness and the bore size... All withen spec. I also use plasti gauge to verify that I don't have a bearing that is not seating properly or something... I have actually caught that on other motors since I verified with Plasti Gauge...
Reason for spining crank is to make sure I dont have this such problem.
It started getting tight but I figured it was because I am withen the tighter side of the factory clearances...
Reason for spining crank is to make sure I dont have this such problem.
It started getting tight but I figured it was because I am withen the tighter side of the factory clearances...
#5
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,593
Likes: 900
From: JunkYard
Possible. I had all the machine work done by very reputable people They Usually tell me if there is a problem... i am going to have it looked at again now that it scored the crank... It looks like something was under the coating on the bearing as there is a round cirle around the are that were the bearing appears to be damaged... I'll try to get pics of it...
#6
Possible. I had all the machine work done by very reputable people They Usually tell me if there is a problem... i am going to have it looked at again now that it scored the crank... It looks like something was under the coating on the bearing as there is a round cirle around the are that were the bearing appears to be damaged... I'll try to get pics of it...
Dial bore gauge is the only way to build a motor. You should also inspect every bearing that you install. Also, the only way the crank does not spin is if you TQ the caps down wrong as well. Done it before. Just undo the caps, and start over. Also, do you have lube on it?
R
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#8
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,593
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From: JunkYard
Dial bore gauge is the only way to build a motor. You should also inspect every bearing that you install. Also, the only way the crank does not spin is if you TQ the caps down wrong as well. Done it before. Just undo the caps, and start over. Also, do you have lube on it?
R
R
BTW FWIW all my tools are High End and all are kept in Excellent Like new shape.
No lube under bearings in case some one is going to ask... only on the crank journals and bearing surfaces

Rick, some one else pointed out that I may have flipped the rear main around on accedint and did not relise it...
It certinally could cause a similar type of issue... I have another set of bearings on the way. I am personally going to check the run out on the crank some time this week when I get a chance.I certinally appericate any help.
Some times it's hard to stand back and see what you might have possibly over looked...
#9
GM Book says inside first Then out side and last the side bolts... You already know the specs... I went first pass inside, first pass out side with the side bolts in place. the second pass inside to proper degree, second pass out side to proper degree then the side of each cap from the center out ward like the torque sequence to the proper torque. I have the Helm GM manual right next to me while I am assebling this. Please advise if something does not sound right Or if there is a better way.
BTW FWIW all my tools are High End and all are kept in Excellent Like new shape.
No lube under bearings in case some one is going to ask... only on the crank journals and bearing surfaces
Rick, some one else pointed out that I may have flipped the rear main around on accedint and did not relise it...
After he said that, I can NOT be 100% sure That cap was on correctly.
It certinally could cause a similar type of issue... I have another set of bearings on the way. I am personally going to check the run out on the crank some time this week when I get a chance.
I certinally appericate any help.
Some times it's hard to stand back and see what you might have possibly over looked...
BTW FWIW all my tools are High End and all are kept in Excellent Like new shape.
No lube under bearings in case some one is going to ask... only on the crank journals and bearing surfaces

Rick, some one else pointed out that I may have flipped the rear main around on accedint and did not relise it...
It certinally could cause a similar type of issue... I have another set of bearings on the way. I am personally going to check the run out on the crank some time this week when I get a chance.I certinally appericate any help.
Some times it's hard to stand back and see what you might have possibly over looked...As for the 5th main cap, very easy to mistake the first time. All the front 4 have the ear tabs facing back, then the last one faces forward.
R
#10
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,593
Likes: 900
From: JunkYard
Um, you leave the side bolts out when you are doing the 4 mains. You will actually see the block expand when you take the side cap bolts out. So there is a load there.
As for the 5th main cap, very easy to mistake the first time. All the front 4 have the ear tabs facing back, then the last one faces forward.
R
As for the 5th main cap, very easy to mistake the first time. All the front 4 have the ear tabs facing back, then the last one faces forward.
R
I am trying to picture the aseembly as I last did it in my head and I am thinking all the numbers were on one side of the block...






