INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

ARP/Katech connecting rod bolts...

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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RoninsDenali
That yellowish stuff on the block, looks like you had to discharge a dry-chem fire exhtinguisher on that thing...


Yep I gues oil and hot iron dont mix too well
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 12:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by trever1t
That had to hurt. How high were you spinning it when it detonated? I asked Rick about doing rod bolts on my set up with the Radix and he said it wasn't necessary.
Man that sucks.

6400 I think maybe a little less. My rev limiter was at 6200 or 6400, it hit once, or twice, then BOOM
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 01:35 AM
  #23  
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Didn't read all the other posts but I have the std ARP's ($69) and have pushed 12psi boost on them @ 6500 with no problems. No special machining needed.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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I haven't found anybody's bad experience from directly replacing ARP's in my research, but obviously there's a reason for them notifying you of that when you go to purchase, right?
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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on cracked rods like ours theres no reason for machining. maybe for the old school sbc's. think about it both bolt squeeze better and are stronger but yet one needs machined and the other don't i don't think so . i went with arp's. Oh, and how much power did parish make with arp's? nuff said.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #26  
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Well, if it is any consolation, every single ASA LS1 engine had these bolts in them, and there were some engines that ran all four seasons without any problems. These bolts are the same exact weight as the stock ones, so they don't offset the balance. They also have the stepped shoulders to positively position in the rod.
There may be absolutly nothing wrong with the ARP's, but my money is on the Katech bolts. They were designed to be an exact replacement, so why mess with a good thing.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:16 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MSURacing
Well, if it is any consolation, every single ASA LS1 engine had these bolts in them, and there were some engines that ran all four seasons without any problems. These bolts are the same exact weight as the stock ones, so they don't offset the balance. They also have the stepped shoulders to positively position in the rod.
There may be absolutly nothing wrong with the ARP's, but my money is on the Katech bolts. They were designed to be an exact replacement, so why mess with a good thing.
are you saying the ARPs are a different weight? I thought they were the same also... but I don't know for sure.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Z06 DREAMING
are you saying the ARPs are a different weight? I thought they were the same also... but I don't know for sure.

To be honest, if they we're of different weight. I'm sure we would have heard complaints about this effecting engine balance, etc. But i havent heard a peep. So im just gonna say their the same (or close enough not to cause a issue)
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #29  
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I am really not sure on the ARP's, all I was saying is that is what the Katech's were built to do. And, they were designed for GM to use, so that is a good enough reason for me.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 05:58 PM
  #30  
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gotchya... good info anyhow.
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