10.5 or 10.75:1 static CR is not too high for boost. Do more reading, I landed at 10.75:1 so I could add boost whenever I wanted.

 

If you want to read about someone else's build with the Mast kit, some good info in this thread also https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rank-rods.html

 

After looking at that thread and a few others, it seems quinch and dynamic compression ratio are a couple of things I need to learn more about before I complete this build. Which is fine, I have nothing but time.
It seems like there's no way to determine DCR until you get the cam and a dial indicator and measure when the intake valve closes - there's no way to determine that by looking at the cam specs on most websites is there? What is considered closed - zero lift when you're on the base circle? I'm looking at Wallace Racing: Dynamic Compression Ratio Calculator

I've been researching cams and I think that franks red hot may be a good option for NA config. I just have no experience with cams and I don't know about how "streetable" a cam is by looking at the numbers. I also don't fully understand convertor stall and how the cam plays into your convertor but it seems LSA is what makes all the difference for convertor selection. But, just because a convertor stalls at 2300, you don't have to spin the motor to 2300 to get engagement?
It seems the Lobe Sep Angle really makes a huge difference and NA cams all run like 110-112LSA whereas "boost" cams are ridiculous, the stock LS9 cam has 122 degrees of split! I can't imagine that would be ok in any NA motor.
Watching this video
it seems like getting into the 240 duration range makes a motor not street friendly, at least for trucks. But I think that's for stock 5.3 or 6 liter displacement. Mine will be 6.4, I don't know how to guage how much more cam you need based on displacement. .4 liters isn't a huge difference either. That guy is also saying that smaller cams are better for trucks due to weight and gearing, you need the power down lower. Although I want big power, my truck has to function well as a daily driver and needs to be able to pull a trailer, although I don't do that very often. I am wanting to re-gear, it would help towing a lot even though this truck has 4.10's from the factory.

 

You want to have your cake and eat it too.

Putting in a smaller cam is ALWAYS better than putting in too big of a cam.

Why risk having a motor that is over cammed when you want to throw boost at it? If you're 20 hp short with a small cam, remember you're going to add 100 hp with a blower.

Having 500-600 wheel HP in a heavy truck will blow the tires off on the street and if you ever find traction you'll blow your trans.

 

of course I want the cake that's why I'm here. As far as the transmission goes I'm looking at a Jake's rebuild kit. I've never built a transmission but glossing through some YouTube videos it doesnt seem too hard. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

I rebuilt my first 4L80e 2 years ago, which is still sitting in my garage waiting...for something. I'd swapped it into my 99 Silverado 1500 but I somehow left a piece of ZipTape insife the fluid
​​pan and it got sucked into the filter and cut off lubrication and burn up the forward drum clutches. I swapped another unit just to get the truck going again and decided to I wanted to learn how to overhaul the burnt up 4L80e.

I used the Transmission Bench overhaul kit which comes with like 8 hours of training videos. I highly recommend it. I also watched pretty much all YT videos out there, LOL. It's not hard, but does take a lot of time and patience. Having a very large space to tear everything down, clean and inspect it is a must. Some specialized tools also and a shop press comes in handy. Obviously, a ton of aftermarket modifications and upgrades if you want to increase power levels to the moon, but I've just done stock rebuilds so far.

This Spring I overhauled another unit for my brother's 6.0/4L80e swap in his 90 C1500 rat rod truck. He's been driving around for a few months now and says it's great! ☺️

 

I've read a lot of builds where guys are running high volume oil pumps, but I have also read that the 10295 standard volume is a better option for most builds unless you're running higher clearances for a race motor. I don't want to put the factory oil pump back in as this motor appears higher mileage, I want to know it's going together with good wearables. Any input?

 

I went with a Melling 10296, it is a high volume, standard pressure pump.

Stock ported pump, which I think WS6store sells is also a very common upgrade.

 

Got to be careful with the high volume pump with a stock pan. You can drain the pan and cavitate it with big hp and rpm if you don’t stay on your oil level.

 

I agree, I ran an oil cooler plus at least a 1/2 quart extra, total would be around 10 quarts.