INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

5.3 Dod delete Kit! Help!

Old Jul 29, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #11  
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What is it exactly doing at idle? Misfire? Stumbles? Any codes?
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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Like the timing is off or engine out of balance. If you have ever seen a dura max that someone did not get the balancer bolt tight enought and the key broke that is what it runs like. Tech 2 does not show any misfires. No trouble codes.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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I will fix it this week and post the fix. Was really hoping to find someone that has done this besides Texas speed that has made it work! Just of assurance it will work.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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Camshaft fixed the problem.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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So you are saying you have to change the cam bc the factory dod cam will not work?
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 10:14 PM
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The factory cam will NOT work on the 5.3 LC9. The uneven compression on the cylinders causes a out of balance engine feel. Sure it will run but not right.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 11:46 AM
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I understand you don't want to believe us at this point, but step back and look at how it all works. Cranking compression requires good rings and valves that are closed. Obviously this swap changes lifters and valley cover which before would affect the valves opening/not opening under light load cruising speeds. Now, you got rid of all that. The cam lobes are in the same position before the swap as they are after you change a cam, they just have different duration, lift, etc.

So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #18  
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Update.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-kit-help.html
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 07:36 AM
  #19  
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Note to self, replace the camshaft when deleting AFM...

I guess it's a crapshoot as to if it'll work or not? I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks and know I won't have to go into it again than get it all wrapped up and then have camshaft related misfire issues.. Good info in both threads.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 06:55 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Sales2@Texas-speed
I understand you don't want to believe us at this point, but step back and look at how it all works. Cranking compression requires good rings and valves that are closed. Obviously this swap changes lifters and valley cover which before would affect the valves opening/not opening under light load cruising speeds. Now, you got rid of all that. The cam lobes are in the same position before the swap as they are after you change a cam, they just have different duration, lift, etc.

So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
I am very Confident in my installation skills. Glad you decided to see things my way.
Attached Thumbnails 5.3 Dod delete Kit!   Help!-ts.jpg  

Last edited by SA_swaps; Mar 28, 2014 at 07:42 PM.
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