5.3 Dod delete Kit! Help!
#12
Like the timing is off or engine out of balance. If you have ever seen a dura max that someone did not get the balancer bolt tight enought and the key broke that is what it runs like. Tech 2 does not show any misfires. No trouble codes.
#13
I will fix it this week and post the fix. Was really hoping to find someone that has done this besides Texas speed that has made it work! Just of assurance it will work.
#17
FormerVendor
iTrader: (5)
I understand you don't want to believe us at this point, but step back and look at how it all works. Cranking compression requires good rings and valves that are closed. Obviously this swap changes lifters and valley cover which before would affect the valves opening/not opening under light load cruising speeds. Now, you got rid of all that. The cam lobes are in the same position before the swap as they are after you change a cam, they just have different duration, lift, etc.
So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
#18
#19
Hunt&Fisherator
iTrader: (15)
Note to self, replace the camshaft when deleting AFM...
I guess it's a crapshoot as to if it'll work or not? I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks and know I won't have to go into it again than get it all wrapped up and then have camshaft related misfire issues.. Good info in both threads.
I guess it's a crapshoot as to if it'll work or not? I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks and know I won't have to go into it again than get it all wrapped up and then have camshaft related misfire issues.. Good info in both threads.
#20
I understand you don't want to believe us at this point, but step back and look at how it all works. Cranking compression requires good rings and valves that are closed. Obviously this swap changes lifters and valley cover which before would affect the valves opening/not opening under light load cruising speeds. Now, you got rid of all that. The cam lobes are in the same position before the swap as they are after you change a cam, they just have different duration, lift, etc.
So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
So we know your rings are good enough to build and hold compression, obviously. What could possibly hold the valves open on that setup?? The answer is too much preload (bottoming out the plunger). That could be improper pushrod length, or improper install/torque on the rocker arms. That is physically all that can cause the issue. It's not a stock cam problem. I am sorry it is this way, and I know you want to have confidence in your installing shop, but they are wrong.
Last edited by SA_swaps; 03-28-2014 at 07:42 PM.
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