i have a 2000 scsb 4.8, 5 spd. i have the sts kit with some other bolt ons and custom mods but mostly additional small stuff. even with the numbers that it put out on the dyno, i want to try to get it over the 400-420 rwhp mark. the heads and internals on the motor are completely stock & with 83,000 miles on them. i am pretty good with easy bolt ons, but for some reason, the internals are a little intimedating. i have been reasearching the 4.8 on here and other websites and have found a little info. i just want to know if it is legal to put an aftermarket cam & valvetrain, or another motors cam &valvetrain in my truck? and which cam and etc should i look at and research more? or is it legal to put a bigger motor in my truck (legal means- will it pass smog, thats all i care about) thanks in advance, im a newb so please take it easy

 

I don't know much about smog testing. You're talking about a sniffer, right? I'm guessing the test is done at idle rather than on the highway at WOT. If you are running cats and have a good tune you should pass the snif test. I installed a big cam that originally cam out of a 6.0 SS. I first put it in a 5.3 and then transplanted it in a 4.8 when the 5.3 was wrecked. It's going on 3 years and it's running like a scalded dog still. The cam is 224-544, but ends up being close to 575 because the owner bought a set of Scorpion 1.8s which bumped up the lift. Go BIG. Don't be intimidated by this job. The only hard part is putting the oil pump back on if you install a double row chain. Use 5/16 metal dowels to hold the lifters up during the swap.

 

go to www.ls1howto.com to find out more about the cam swap...I used it on my 1st cam swap and it came in very handy...the cam I used to have in my 4.8 was a comp 212/218 .522/.529 on a 114lsa and it ran great...Kyle (KBRacing) had a similar cam in his turbo 4.8 and he had good results and I think he still runs it in his 5.7...you dont need to go hog wild with cams in FI applications seeing everything is gettin forced in...

 

im talking about any smog. i bought the truck in cali a year and a half ago, but i just moved to oregon a month ago. i dont know anything about the smog here. im sure its either just like cali or easier, cuz believe me, cali smog is ******* rediculous if you dont know someone to hook u up. so...if i do the SS cam would i have to do springs, retainers, pushrods, etc. and would you recommend (eallanboggs) doing the double row chain? and no, i dont have cats, but i did keep them just in case cuz i know they are a little pricey to get. thank again for any info

teddy

 

You don't have to do the double row chain. If this is your first LS series cam swap I'd stay away from the double chain because it's a pain the the *** to install. The OEM chain is OK in most cases and there are other single row chains that are stronger if you want to upgrade your chain. If you go to a bigger cam you need to go to aftermarket springs that will handle the extra lift that the stock springs could go into coil bind under. You do not necessarily have to upgrade the pushrods unless you go to rockers that use guideplates. If you do change the springs get the Vinci/Crane spring tool($100). Best spring tool available for the LS series and does two springs at a time.

 

how much power did you see with the 6.0 SS cam? i vaguely understand what is involved in a cam swap, so i will try ls1.com like jakebrake said to see exactly what i need to take off. but im sur i have to drain all fluids, take out radiator, fan, timing chain cover, timing chain, udp, maybe some other things i cant think of. and the things i need to replace will be... cam, springs, probably go to a stronger timing chain, is that it if i dont change the rockers? obviously i would need to get it tuned right?

 

The truck that has the cam from the SS is very strong for an ext cab. We sent the PCM to Texas Speed for a reflash during the cam swap. That made a substantial improvement. I also did the super servo on the 4L60 in his truck. I did both the 1/2 and 3/4 apply clutches. If you do that mod you will see a big improvement in the transmission shifting. That's a real good mod to do and it only costs about $200 for the parts plus your labor. I made a handle to use in removing and installing the cam. I cut a piece of flat stock and drilled 4 holes in it(3 for the bolts and 1 for the dowel pin). I welded a handle to the flat stock. When I pull or install a LS cam I use this homemade handle to help me hold the cam during the process. This is the only really tricky part of the job. You have to hold the cam very staight as you're pulling it out of the block. This takes some dexterity and my handle helps keep it straight.

 

my truck is a manual. plus, i have the predator tuner. will that be enough to tune the truck or should i contact texas speed and see what they can do?

 

ITS ALL LEGAL till u get caught homey!!!!

 

A handheld tuner like yours or Hypertech are not even in the same class. They make only minor changes and are limited to the types of changes they can make. A speed shop has nearly unlimited flexibility in what they can do with the spark and fuel tables. An they can delete DTCs that you don't want like rear O2 cat sensor so your MIL doesn't illuminate even if you don't have rear cats. They can make a big difference. I'd use a tuner. Either mail order or do somewhere that has a dyno and specializes in the LS series engine. There are a bunch of people who do mail order tunes as well on site tuners. You should contact a few to see who you want to use. With Texas Speed you can ship the PCM overnite. They tune it the next day and overnite it back to you. That way the cam is already installed and all you're doing is waiting for the UPS driver to arrive to reinstall the PCM which only takes a few minutes. You then turn the key and drive away. Sweet.[/LIST]