350RWHP+ 5.3 S10 Build
#1
Thread Starter
13 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 0
From: Arlington (DFW), Texas
Well, since I picked up a 5.3 recently I have been thinking about my plans for it. This motor will be going into the S10 in my sig.
Plans:
10.5:1 Compression 5.3
Milled 862's .030
224/224 112 (ish)
Pushrods/Springs
New Lifters?
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
LS6 Intake
Ported Throttle Body
LS2 Oil Pan/Windage Tray/ Pick Up
Current Performance Wiring Harness
Hedman S10 Swap Long Tubes
Circle D 2c
3.73's
Im looking for 350+RWHP
What do you guys think of the set up? Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions?
Plans:
10.5:1 Compression 5.3
Milled 862's .030
224/224 112 (ish)
Pushrods/Springs
New Lifters?
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
LS6 Intake
Ported Throttle Body
LS2 Oil Pan/Windage Tray/ Pick Up
Current Performance Wiring Harness
Hedman S10 Swap Long Tubes
Circle D 2c
3.73's
Im looking for 350+RWHP
What do you guys think of the set up? Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions?
Last edited by A Low Dime; Jun 1, 2009 at 11:20 PM.
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#8
I like the setup, sounds good. What's the stall speed on a CircleD 2c?
#9
It seems like a very "standard" setup. 10.5:1 is very common (LS6 stock CR), TR224 is used a lot on here, etc.... no issues that I see.
If it were MY setup, I would:
- do the entire valvetrain (lifters, pushrods, springs, retainers, and even a double roller timing chain)
- depending on planned RPM, a set of direct swap ARP rod bolts (these CAN be swapped without honing the rods)
- depending on mileage, cleanup hone/new rings and replace all bearings (allows for above honing of rods after bolt swap)
While my "suggested" stuff is "entirely unnecessary", it's easy (and cheap) to do before the engine goes in and provides some serious insurance.
Small points DozerDan saying the H3 pan are beyond my input so go find a list/step-by-step S10 swap guide to give you heads up on "swap specific" issues.
If it were MY setup, I would:
- do the entire valvetrain (lifters, pushrods, springs, retainers, and even a double roller timing chain)
- depending on planned RPM, a set of direct swap ARP rod bolts (these CAN be swapped without honing the rods)
- depending on mileage, cleanup hone/new rings and replace all bearings (allows for above honing of rods after bolt swap)
While my "suggested" stuff is "entirely unnecessary", it's easy (and cheap) to do before the engine goes in and provides some serious insurance.
Small points DozerDan saying the H3 pan are beyond my input so go find a list/step-by-step S10 swap guide to give you heads up on "swap specific" issues.
#10
Thread Starter
13 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 0
From: Arlington (DFW), Texas
If it were MY setup, I would:
- do the entire valvetrain (lifters, pushrods, springs, retainers, and even a double roller timing chain)
- depending on planned RPM, a set of direct swap ARP rod bolts (these CAN be swapped without honing the rods)
- depending on mileage, cleanup hone/new rings and replace all bearings (allows for above honing of rods after bolt swap)



lol


