INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

2nd opinion

Old Nov 27, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #11  
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It's not that difficult, just take your time and follow the LS1 howto instructions.

Since you have never done it before it might take you 2-3 days if you take your time and only work on it so and so hours per day. If you get the correct valve spring tool it won't take near that long. Get someone to help you knowledgeable and it shouldn't take long at all. Some guys can do a swap in 8 hours or less from start to finish, but they have experience under their belt.

The valve springs are what took the longest imo, everything else was a breeze.

If you have to change out the timing chain and lower the oil pan then get a new oil pump o ring (red o-ring) it will take a little longer. I would reuse the stock timing chain unless your engine has a ton of miles on it. Don't forget the gaskets for the cam swap and the new crank bolt. It's good to go ahead and get the gasket kit for like $45-$55 iirc as you never know if one of your gaskets will be reusable or not. The water pump gaskets will always need replacing though, they tear up so easy, and are cheap anyway.

You will also need some rtv gasket maker for the timing cover, and prob some locktite for some bolts. Get some lube for your shaft aka camshaft, although a few people just use regular motor oil before inserting it..
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #12  
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Changing springs is the most aggravating part. Its not hard, just tedious, as long as you have a good tool. To do just the cam it takes about 4 hours if you know what you're doin. Bout 6-8 springs included. With the rockers removed and the timing chain off, spin the cam a couple times to get the lifters in the trays. Then stick a wooden dowel rod into each hole that is in the block on either side of the cam. Make sure the dowel rod goes all the way through to the back of the block. That will ensure that your lifters do not fall out of their trays.

You should only have to remove the harmonic balancer and the water pump to get your timing cover off. You should only have to remove the radiator also, no need to remove the A/C condenser.

Don't get in a hurry with the springs. Do one cylinder at a time. Two cylinders will be at TDC at a time, change those two then rotate the engine till the next set. Its not bad.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #13  
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How come no one runs a 110 Lsa, does it affect drivability that much?
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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I run a 224/230 110lsa and tuning the idle was the only problem. Rarely it would die at stop lights, but i put a bigger throttle body and alls good now.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 02:57 PM
  #15  
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I think ill go with the 112 being that my tune is mail oredered
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