If that's how brake pistons worked then sliding caliper setups wouldn't work for ****. Since the pistons are just floating in brake fluid it'll work itself out. The problem is at the extremes of pad life. Brand new and worn might have issues if the piston cannot extend or retract enough.

Right?

 

Did someone actually find out, like, with a CAD program, and disc other that it’s actually exactly .125” to center the caliper? I thought the guy just eyeballed it and .125” is a round number.

 

Well, its .15" thickness, but yeah that "round number" has me questioning it a little too. Perhaps going into the thousandths is almost irrelevant. Even on these washers I posted, (from a company that looks to get pretty specific and detailed about their washers), some of these still had a .01" tolerance in the washer's manufacturing thickness. I COULD ONLY GUESS the washer's you would pick up at the hardware store would probably have a similar manufacturing tolerance or perhaps even worse. (If the manufacturing is .01" bigger, and .01" smaller, the caliper COULD POTENTIALLY be .02" difference in your two mounting bolts if you don't measure it or have a way to get that accurate).

What the video does say; is they used a washer for the rough size, measured, figured out what size they needed, then had a custom set made for that size. Then they have SHOWN how the final setup IS centered.

I don't think a CAD program is necessary. You can measure from one side of the caliper to one side of the rotor and split the difference. If somebody really wanted to overkill; I would think the best way to test, would be to mount them up with as close to the correct shim as you can get, and use thickness gauge. Unless you have some youtube channel, and wanted to put this to rest, seems a bit much to go through.

It's not that we KNOW this is 100% accurate, it's that nobody has else 'shown their work' like this. This is just the best thing I've seen so far in this still newish mod, and here's how anyone can get right here too.

 

Ok. Got it. I’ve got the factory spindle off an 03. I’ll mount it to the workbench and see what I can find. The one I did find I think was on the Tahoe forum and they referenced a .125” washer. This is the first I’ve heard of a .15. If it’s .15, that lands in lock washer territory as far as accuracy and expense. It appears Hillman changed suppliers and all of their 1/2” flat washers at Lowes, HD, and Ace are now measuring .100.

 

You know, thats what I kind of remember too. I don't know where that thread is, but I remember when this first came out, you could still get all the parts off rockauto. IIRC, they had the measurements posted, and I thought .12 or even .2 was what I remembered.

I don't even know why we're going through all of this though. I bought brakes off you a while ago, and they are great. I have no intentions of buying these any time soon, and you are selling take offs NNBS.

 

I’m selling 4 piston take offs now

 

So. What part hits the LTZ wheels? I’ve seen someone do it already so I took a chance. I cut down this bump. Only way to know the real reason for its existence is to drill and find out if this is thin but, there’s no indication that the inside of the caliper is the shape of the outside with this big bump.

 

They do not fit declads or GMC 20" chrome clads just btw

Not without 1/2" of spacers

 

Ah, got it. Where does it hit? Is it the actual body of the caliper or this 1/2" bump out?

 

1/2" bump out was ground down.
Hits the spokes from what i understand. @dantheman1540 did it for me