No, it's more of a rectangular shape kind of what you see and the walls are thin like 1/8". This was 12 hours of doing it with a Dewalt router, 22.5* bit and a Craftsman drum sanding kit in a cordless drill lol. If the LS9/LSA guys are seeing gains porting their bottle necks, I think this will do ok.

 

Nice build! I'm just getting going on mine. I read straight thru your thread, I am hoping mine turns out as good as your has.

 

Finally got around to getting the Innovators West pulleys on. Of course nothing is easy with this Lysholm blower. I had to get two 2.75" idlers made and a new 8 rib blower pulley. Belt size is a K081223, it's a bit tight so in order to get it to fit I had to take apart and modify the tensioner to allow it to have more throw.

I put the stock throttle body on it for now until I hit the dyno again.

 

wow...nicely done...when my engine was down I should have sent ya my inlet and TB and paid you to port... that looks fantastic man !!!

I got down to the 3.25" pulley the hard way

now its this...

2011 SILVERADO CC/SB 4WD
FACTORY 6L80E TRANS
9.5" DETROIT TRUTRAC
3.73 GEARS
LYSHOLM 2300AX W/ 3.25" PULLEY
LS9 HEAD GASKETS
ARP MAIN/HEAD STUDS
WISECO FORGED PISTONS W/PIN
UPGRADES-FACTORY BORE
W/ K1 RODS - GM CRANK
BTR STAGE 2 TURBO CAM
COMP PN#32631134
COMP ADJUSTABLE TIMING SET
COMP MATCHED DUAL SPRINGS
COMP HARDENED PUSHRODS
COMP SHORT TRAVEL LIFTERS
COMP TRUNION ROCKER UPGRADE
VVT & DOD DELETE
CAMARO THROTTLE BODY
RAND MCNALLY DUAL VALVE PCV
SNOW DUAL METH NOZZLES (2x #5'S)
---CURRENTLY ON@3PSI - FULL@6PSI
KOOKS 1 7/8 LONG TUBES
W/3.5" CATLESS MBRP EXHAUST

having some tuning woes right now

 

I've been told the innovators pulleys will get you a lot more jam up top. Have you expirenced this?

 

All around has more jam with the 10% overdriven crank balancer. Feels very strong.

 

Since most people aren't aware, ATI makes 8 rib kits also. IMO you cant beat their crank pulleys. Never used the rest of their kit though.

 

I posted this in its original thread but I'll update here too.

I wanted to use a Cobalt SS 20 psi boost gauge so the appearance somewhat matched my Silverado and after 4 or 5 years, I finally got around to doing this. What I ended up doing is using an Autometer #4907 Ultra-lite II gauge and swapping the faces.

OEM Cobalt SS gauge on the left, Ultra-lite on the right.



Using a tiny flat blade screwdriver I gently pried around the crimped bezel ring to get it off without kinking it. Here you can see inside the Cobalt gauge.



The Cobalt needle on the left didn’t match the needles on my Silverado and wouldn't fit on the Ultra-lite so I mix and matched the bits to give a happy medium.



Here you can see the back side. I had already removed the shaft/ collar from the Cobalt gauge. My plan was to take the needle from the Ultra-lite and put the Cobalt needle cover on it.



Obviously it wasn't going to fit but melting 2 keyways into the needle for the pins on the needle cover with a hot metal pick was fast and worked flawless.



A little dab of hot glue just to ensure the cap doesn't fall off and its ready to reassemble.



The Cobalt gauge face needed a bit of notching for the tabs to index, press the needle back on, I used the glass from the Ultra-lite as the Cobalt gauge was plastic and I also liked the Cobalt bezel ring as it was more of a satin chrome so that's what went back on. A little massaging to crimp the ring back on and it's ready to rock and roll GM style.




Now hopefully it doesn't take me almost 5 years to install it!

 

Ok so I just woke up, but it peaks at 140? 140 what?

 

Kpa..