iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

man thats SOOOO much build up, id pull it out for a rebuild

looks like that thing just came off the show room floor and had the heads pulled off it. good job man

08cheyennesc

iTrader: (2)

Why not? Is there something I can **** up bad? Or is it just not for first timers? I did my torque converter myseft with no previous experience , that's why I think I can take on the cam and DOD delete .

2007chevy5.3l

iTrader: (21)

I think its all about having the know how, confidence, and patience. If you have that go for it!

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

that and having the tools, book, know how of swapping a cam. if you get in a rush pulling the cam, or putting the cam back in you will nick/scratch the cam bearings which will ruin the cam, and the cam bearings.

if you know how to use a torque wrench (the right way) and can follow instructions, not rush the process, and have the tools-space to do it, then i say go for it. we can walk you through the whole process if need be but there are a lot of tools you have to buy to do the cam swap if thats the route you go.


10-75ft lbs 3/8" torque wrench
20-250ft lbs 1/2" torque wrench
15/16" deep socket with a long 1/2" breaker bar
long and short prybar
10mm deep drive socket
8mm deep drive socket
13mm deep drive and shallow drive socket
15mm socket
3" and 6" extension
3/8" ratchet or air ratchet
1/2" impact or 1/2" ratchet
loc-tite
rags
brake cleaner
3 arm claw puller
NO BEER till after you are done. i dont want to see anyone leave a socket/rag/particals in the motor and ruin it

i may be missing a few things but thats the basic needs of a DOD swap. soak your lifters 24hrs imo. key thing is taking your time and remembering everything that you took out has to go back. this isnt a good project to have bolts/parts left over

afterburn84

Thanks but the only reason it looks soo clean is I taped and painted the parts of the block you see and I wasted 4 cans of carb cleaner while sitting on the rad support and scraped all the dang carbon build up off my slugs.. I dont know if its the quality of fuel or if its bc of the fuel management? It was worse than I expected on a 3 year old vehicle with only 18k miles on her... I wish the U.P.S. man would hurry the heck up!! I'm tired of coming home with no boxes on the porch

Mrgoodwrench3

Locked in 4 cyl mode?? No, the DOD delete is just that, it has been deleted. All those parts have been removed. How would it stay in 4 cyl mode?
As some others have posted getting the proper torque on the head bolts can be a challenge. Do yourself a favor and use ARP bolts. These do not need to be stretched to gain proper torque, only torqued in 3 stages.
When I did mine I pulled the engine. It's really not much more work. Then you can install new cam bearings for some piece of mind. Here is the link to my write up.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nation+project

afterburn84

Well your build is very nice Mrgoodwrench. But Im not going that deep in mine. Just a mild cam and new springs with the DOD delete. I am very interested in the ARP head bolts bc with the headers just layin over, its still a pain in the rear for me to even get the heads off and I WAS dreading doing the stretch on a set of OE bolts. When you use ARP bolts the sequence is the same but what is the ft.lbs and stages you torque them?

Mrgoodwrench3

Yes the torque sequence is the same. The large bolts are torqued in 3 stages.
30, 50, 80 lb-ft.
The smaller M8 bolts are to 22 lb-ft.
It is a good idea to go over all the bolts several times to be sure.

I would highly recommend you get this book.

How to build and modify GM LS-Series Engines. Written by Joseph Potak. The publisher is Motorbooks. This is the best LS book I have seen. So much great information. You can find it on Amazon.

afterburn84

Ok good deal on the ARP bolts... I have a book called How to build high performance LS1/LS6 V-8s by Will Handzel.. Pretty informative but I can tell its still lacking some detail....