GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion 2007 - 2013 Trucks | General Discussion

driveshaft problems on nnbs

Old Jul 7, 2011 | 04:15 AM
  #31  
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sounds like a blessing^^hopefully you replaced that chokemaster with something free flowing like magnaflow, corsa, etc....
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by iamkeniff
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c10_...iveshafts.html

depending his u-joints. 600 for 1310-1330s and 700 for the 1350s....
gotta pay to play.


my truck isnt 450rwhp but im sure its 420 and ive never had a problem with my stock d-shaft. yet, i dont go to the track all the time and i dont put my truck on the dyno.....so i guess there's no need to worry. at the track i dont lock my converter either so its not putting a strain on the driveline as much as locking the converter. times in the sig....i plan on going faster in due time
I will need one of those when I get my cam too. I'm assuming you have a cam+ bolt on setup? What cam are you running?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #33  
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i paid $259 for mine. 1350 joints and a strange slip yoke


only way i would pay 700$ for a drive shaft is if it was made out of titanium
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #34  
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/\ where did you get it? /\
Self-installed?
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #35  
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i need one. im on my second factory replacement. being very annoyed with shutting down at 90 mph.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 02:31 PM
  #36  
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Default my 2010 cc

Ive checked with a few local shops. They tell me that im going to have to have a brace fabbed and go with a two piece driveshaft. My truck has been 130 and havent felt vibration but im not gonna take any chances. Once the cam and stall converter go in. I may be in for a little trouble with the tin can driveshaft. If anyone else knows a diffrent solution any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sm4127
Ive checked with a few local shops. They tell me that im going to have to have a brace fabbed and go with a two piece driveshaft. My truck has been 130 and havent felt vibration but im not gonna take any chances. Once the cam and stall converter go in. I may be in for a little trouble with the tin can driveshaft. If anyone else knows a diffrent solution any help would be greatly appreciated.
i had mine above 130 one night. i ignored the vibration on the dyno, on the street from 95-100 mph {after this it went away} until it exploded on me while doing 85mph.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #38  
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What is the stock thickness of the aluminum driveshaft. I went by a local shop today to discuss having them make me a stronger one as I am adding a whipple supercharger early next week and do not want to have to worry about it. Also What thickness do you recommend?
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:36 AM
  #39  
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Are you guys only having problems with the 2 piece driveshafts or the 1 piece aswell? And are the 2wd drives a 2piece?
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mjdxtreme
What is the stock thickness of the aluminum driveshaft. I went by a local shop today to discuss having them make me a stronger one as I am adding a whipple supercharger early next week and do not want to have to worry about it. Also What thickness do you recommend?
the stock alum ones are roughly .060 thick. driveshaft specialists spec'd one for my truck to be 5" dia .120 wall

Originally Posted by 11z71
Are you guys only having problems with the 2 piece driveshafts or the 1 piece aswell? And are the 2wd drives a 2piece?
as far as i know its not the 2pcs that are the problem its just the 1pc. there are like 30 different driveshafts that came in these trucks. it depends on year and body style. my std cab long bed prob has the longest 1pc that came in these things.
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